DROK DC-DC Stabilizer, 9V-36V to 12V Boost Buck Converter 5A 60W Waterproof Auto Step Up Down Voltage Regulator 12V Volt Transformer for Car Audio Solar Power System LCD Television LED Display Screen

Easy install and quick-fix for MaxxFan voltage errors. Fits inside MaxxFan housing.

I used this for a step-down voltage 5v output on a portable ham radio setup for POTA since November. Everything else required 12v, the tuner required 5v so I added this in line for its power. Seemed to work well. Yesterday the device failed spectacularly. Sudden "pop" noise, smoke, and even flame for a couple of seconds where the case had split. I had to evacuate the car until the smoke had dissipated. Glad I was there when it happened. Definitely done with these things, I will replace those I'm running at home as well. I can't trust them.

Works great!

Worked perfectly. I had a long run of low voltage landscape wire driving my LED accent lights. The voltage inevitably drops over distance and the lights stop working after about 100ft. I installed this boost there and it bumped the voltage back up to 12.5v and helped drive the remaining 75ft of LED lights. Perfect solution.

Another maxxfan amateur repair tech here! Was getting 15.2v from shore power and fan was not having it. Sent info to manufacturer and they suggested a volt reg like this one. Asked for a brand recommendation and they haven’t responded. This was easy peasy on installation. 12.2v from both shore and house. I am concerned about longevity as mentioned in so many other reviews but I guess that remains to be seen. For now I can say this was as simple a fix as I’ve had in quite some time. Almost makes you wonder why the maxxfan people don’t just put one of these in at time of build.

This DC to DC converter supplies 12v to my Eversecu Mod:ES-AHD-BGZ5 "HD Analog IR PTZ Dome Camera", mounted 80 feet up on a tower, So it's a big deal to replace when it fails. This is the second 5A, 60 watt unit to fail in 12 months. The first one destroyed the camera it supplied by passing 34vdc to the cameras 12v input. This time I was lucky, the camera survived, but there is still the issue of accessing it to replace it, 80 feet up the tower. I thought I'd give Drok one more try since I am happy with a different one of their products. So I bought a "F36W12V10A5L", 9V-36V in 12V 10A out model and it failed in 20 minutes, before I could even raise it up on the tower. @ $27 I expected longer service life especially with such a minimal 600ma load. Meanwhile my security system is down until a replacement arrives(next week, I'm told)

The LED strip lighting I wanted to install in my RV came with a transformer that converts 120VAC to 12VDC. But I wanted to wire the LED strips directly into my RV's 12V system. The problem here is that the LEDs are designed to function within a very narrow voltage range. The transformer provides this, but the output of RV batteries generally ranges from 11.5 - 14.4VDC, depending on SOC (State Of Charge). This problem is what gadgets like the DROK unit are designed for. With the input side of my DROK wired to the battery (through a fuse of course), I'm now seeing a very steady 12.2VDC on the DROK's output, no matter what the battery's SOC, and the two LED strips, wired in parallel to the output, perform flawlessly. Some reviewers have complained of the DROK unit overheating, and since it is only rated to 5 amps, or 60 watts, this could happen if devices that draw more than 60 watts total are connected to the output, or if there is a short circuit on the output side. My two 16' LED strips draw about 2 amps total, and after running them for several hours the DROK was only slightly warm. There is no heat sink with the DROK unit which is one reason why pushing the output rating could lead to serious overheating. For devices that demand more power you might consider the Ekylin Car Voltage Stabilizer model C121212 which is rated to 12 amps (144 watts), and is encased in a robust heat sink. NOTE: Regardless of which voltage stabilizer you are using, always wire the "+" lead on the input side of the unit through an appropriately rated fuse before connecting to the battery. Here's a link to the Ekylin 12 amp unit, fyi: https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Stabilizer-Protector-Regulator-DC10-36V/dp/B08BRN3R5Y/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.afd9c6b4-b179-4d6a-8ad1-7056a39c01ab%3Aamzn1.sym.afd9c6b4-b179-4d6a-8ad1-7056a39c01ab&crid=336PXO3ER7L7N&cv_ct_cx=dc%2Bdc%2Bvoltage%2Bstabilizer&keywords=dc%2Bdc%2Bvoltage%2Bstabilizer&pd_rd_i=B06Y5JHZG2&pd_rd_r=3036ce29-0c68-4c42-b56e-893bc9244a9e&pd_rd_w=oeyf1&pd_rd_wg=kRW30&pf_rd_p=afd9c6b4-b179-4d6a-8ad1-7056a39c01ab&pf_rd_r=W9GPWKJM08ZP8D58BZA4&qid=1695316652&s=industrial&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=dc%2Bdc%2Bvoltage%2Bstabilizer%2Cindustrial%2C175&sr=1-2-2b34d040-5c83-4b7f-ba01-15975dfb8828-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

Our Maxfan wasn't working when we bought the fan, and just by attaching the voltage controller, now it is working great.