LymanFlash Hole Uniformer

Great for fixing flash holes. / Cuts a large size flash holeIf you are getting super into what size the flash hole has to be I would not recommend. This thing cuts a large flash hole. I would get something more specific. If you are just doing it to give you the feel good and are learning great tool.1.Things to consider when using this tool- What step am I on? This can make a difference weather or not the case has been sized and trimmed.- I found that if i do the flash hole after it has been sized and trimmed = consistency in uniformity- Keep the same case manufacture the same. I found if if i mix and match i have to constantly adjust the tool. Separate the cases and you will find some manufactures are strait trash in how they do it.- Once it is done. You never need to do it again.- If you use a power trimmer it fits.Pros: cuts fast and consistently once it is adjustedCONS: not as much control can cut to deep if you are to aggressive- Great tool for the price.

As far as the center drill I think it worked pretty good the nitrate titanium coating was a good touch. The repeatability on The cutting depth works so much better after the cases have been trimmed to a specific in uniform length.

All brass is not created equal. Flash holes and primer pockets are an example. If you're not making them uniform in size and shape, you cannot expect your powder charge to ignite consistently. The result of inconsistent ignition will destroy your accuracy.Handloading is no longer about reducing the cost of shooting as it once was. The powder you once bought for under $20 is now over $50. The brick of primers that was $12 is now $90 or more.The only remaining reasons to handload are (1) ammo availability and (2) tayloring your ammo to your fire arm. Accuracy and precision require consistency in loading components and practices, of which, brass preparation is fundamental. This tool is essential to prepping your brass and it does it very well with little effort.

So far I've used this tool on several hundred cases: .380, .45, .38 special, and .308. I've read the other reviews and I had my concerns when I bought the tool. Here is what I found. You should make sure that you wear some type of latex or nitrile gloves. It isn't so much to save you from blisters but to protect your fingers from getting brass slivers in them and to keep a good grip on the cartriges. The bit in my tool never slipped at all. The collar does not slide up and down easily on the shaft so you don't have to worry about it slipping once you tighten the set screw. The bit is sharp and does it's job well. The handle is firm and easy to hold. The package it comes in is large enough to store my Lee Decapping Tool in along with the Deburring Tool. If your cartriges have big burrs on the flash holes it will take a little work to smooth them down, but this will get it done if you take it a little at a time.All in all, I'm happy with the tool and I can buy one with a moveable collar instead of buying other brands where you have to buy a tool for each caliber.

I've been using this on some 5.56 used military brass. Let me say that I have some pretty expensive reloading equipment but some of the hand operated stuff works just as well, especially due to it's portable nature mixed with economy. I have had no problems with this uniformer so far. It will dig in a little ocasionally but has been no real "problem" and the bit is still in place and going strong. It is a hardened bit with a Titanium nitride coating. You only have to do this to your brass 1 time and that's it.To use the tool you trim your brass then use a deburring tool and your ready to uniform your pockets. and here's and enxtra note. I have the RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep center and if I want I can screw this into one of the stations and viola, powered flash hole uniformer. You could also chuck this up in a cordless drill for most cases as well.

Great tool for uniformed flash holes. Why would you spend all that time cleaning & prepping brass and not want a clean, uniformed flash hole? Time consuming, yes. But this is the same principle as a clogged, dirty fuel injector. If you want efficient ignition, this is a must. After you set the depth, lock it in with the set screw. While using it when u feel it catching a heavy burr, do NOT force it to cut! Very slightly back it off a tad and gradually nip at the burr and apply more pressure as it whittles away. You can also go in the opposite direction to get it to where it doesn’t bind. But when it catches a heavy burr just don’t force it or you could damage or break ur tool. Like she said, be gentle and don’t force it (to cut) LOL

Now that I bought it, I wonder how necessary it is. Does it work as advertised? Absolutely. Does chamfering your flash hole really matter? I sort of doubt it, unless you have really bad brass. I will leave the further discussion to the real experts.

My purchase arrived today. Opened it, set the .010” cutting depth, and checked it out with a couple trimmed cases. All perfect. Great tool.I installed the bit on my Little Crow Gunworks PPT handle. Now I’m having fun with this new set up. Easiest way to clean up flash holes as the PPT handle turns the Lyman bit. East on the hands. Best set up I’ve found.