BOSS Audio Systems R1004 Riot Series 4 Channel Amplifier Car Audio - Class A/B, 400 High Output, 2-8 Ohm Stable, High/Low Level Inputs, Full Range

This amplifier exceeded my expectations. The installation was simple and the difference in the car's audio is impressive: the bass is heard deeper, the treble is clearer and in general the sound is much stronger. It does not distort even if it increases the volume and you can see the quality in every detail. In addition, the size is compact and does not take up too much space. Without a doubt, an excellent purchase for those who enjoy good music in the car.

***UPDATE 8/4/18***I went mudding a week ago and accidentally sank my jeep in a pond 🙃 Completely flooded the floor of my interior and soaked the amp, luckily it was off. A couple days later I ripped the entire interior out and washed it out really good, like literally washed the inside of my jeep with a hose. I figured the amp had already been soaked what more harm could I do. Got everything back together after drying out, fired up the jeep, turned the stereo on and BAM! Perfect sound quality. If it can get soaked twice and still work I think that says something.*end of update*Did you know, that running your power lead in close proximity to your audio cables can cause loss of sound clarity, distortion, and you guessed it, alternator whine?! I’ve had to fix plenty of botched installs due to this. I did a little test and ran my audio cables directly next to my 4g power lead going to both my amps. Heavy whine and almost no signal clarity. Re routed my cables to run on the opposite side of my power lead and wow! Signal was clear, bassy, and no alternator whine.This amp is phenomenal and woke up the old Bose speakers I pulled out of a 2001 Pontiac GTP (2ohms at 50 watts RMS, give or take). I drive a Jeep Wrangler TJ and space is precious, so I can’t have big amps and fancy subs. This fit under my driver seat perfectly and cranks some serious audio to my speakers, even with the top down. Great price for a quality low budget system and I get lots of compliments from friends. GREAT AMP!!!

Bought this 600w two channel amp to run 2 12" subs that are rated for 300w each. Figured it was a good price for what I was trying to do and it worked great,....for about 4 days. Suddenly stopped working when I was out running errands. Fine when I got to the store, nothing when I got out of the store. Literally nothing. No sound, no indication anything is wrong with it, no warning it was defective. Just stopped powering the subs.Still has the pretty blue lights behind the logo and a green light showing it has turned on from the remote wire signal but nothing going to the speakers. Speakers checked out, LOC checked out, even tried wireing up the high input harness just to be sure it wasn't coming from the signal side.Hard wired subs to the speakers in my soundbar (jeep thing) and they're fine. Checked the ground, remote, and power, all fine.The crazy thing is, it didn't blow the fuse on it or on the power supply.Just spend a few extra dollars on something that isn't hoping you mistakenly buy it thinking it said Bose. It's cheap for a reason.At least Amazon didn't hassle me on the return.

This unit is clearly not intended to push anything more than a few door speakers. So many people having issues with the amp, and it appears that many of them are using it incorrectly. This is not meant to be bridged and used to power a subwoofer. It is intended to be used to give your door speakers a little boost over the stock amp in your head unit.I also read a lot of reviews about there being a lot of engine noise. I had this issue as well. A couple of things usually cause this issue:1) A bad ground, causing the head unit to send a bad signal to the amp (tested this by hooking up my phone directly to the amp, and getting no interference) - can also occur if the head unit is cheap, a.k.a "Dual".2) Gain set too highI fixed these issues by setting my gain just low enough that I couldn't hear any more engine whine, and by installing an in-line ground loop isolator. After that, it was all about setting up my head unit to put out as much sound as I could get it to.Once I got everything set up, and replaced my cheapo Dual head unit with a Pioneer, I was able to tune the sound to get the amp to push my door speakers as loud as it could. To avoid distortion, I used the crossover setting in my head unit to take out all the bass from the door speakers. I have two 12s in the back that easily fill this lack of bass in, giving me a really good and loud sounding setup. I couldn't be happier, so long as the amp lasts.Don't expect this thing to be the best amp you'll ever buy. It isn't. But, for the price, it's a fantastic option to get more out of your aftermarket door speakers.

It's a cheap, inefficient, class a/b amp. It's not winning any awards at show, but its driving a 12" and adds a little bass to my meager system in my daily driver. I've had this for 4 years now. It survived a car flipping end over end early in its life while being completely unsecured. A little dented and bruised, it has continued to serve faithfully through the years since. If you need something modest, you don't need to blow the latch off your trunk, and don't want to spend a lot of money, this is a decent amp for the cost.

It was indicated that amp produced 400W but it pushes nowhere near that. Not even 150W was produced.