PropheteBicycle Trailer Coupling Set (Pack of 3) - Multi-Colour

This worked perfectly for making a trailer for my wheelchair. A little modification was needed but it's nice and sturdy.

As described well worth the money

Good enough to pull bike trailer but a bit fiddly to mount on bike ended up welding it on but only because it needed repositioning on my bike, once attached to bike it did the job

I was going to buy a more expensive Weber hitch but thought I'd try modifying this hitch for my needs first. Am so glad I did! Hitch is well made and easily adapted to axle mount. I used a thin steel fence clip to form a strengthening bracket to make up for the rigidity lost though being mounted one side only. I've used hose clips to mount tow-bar bracket onto my 28.6mm outside dia tow-bar originally as a temporary measure but has proved to work so well could be used like this permanently without the need for drilling holes. After a trial run with loaded trailer the more direct mount compared with the original elastic/spring hitch makes for a much improve ride and removes the nagging doubt it might snap at any moment.

Why did you choose this product over others?:I needed a small type tow ball, for a notability scooter Design:

I wanted a better hitch because than the Carry Freedom trailer ones were flawed; mine is the large model. The old metal hitch was noisy, and the newer elastomer hitch bracket snapped, because it lacked a metal rope core. Both hitch designs failed to provide enough metal area to minimise circular and lever rotation against the frame, which also made fitting harder.To adapt this seat post hitch for wheel axle mounting, I did the following:* Bolted the cup bracket to the end of the tow arm of my large Carry Freedom trailer, with lock nut.* Cut a 30mm square, 2.5mm thick, MILD Steel ERW hollow Box Section, into a U, which I bolted the hitch to using trimmed 10mm Stainless Steel hex bolts; the removed top side was the side with a join weld in the middle.* Further forward, I drilled a wheel axle sized hole on the vertical side to face the bicycle frame, after trimming the box section length and cutting off the remaining two sides for this part.- The cutting was done using a cordless angle grinder and the sharp edges were filed down smooth to prevent injury.When I towed the trailer unloaded, the hitch failed to retain the cup bracket for long on bumpy terrain, which could be disastrous on the road or on a cycle path with other people. When the trailer was loaded with a PC and monitor, the cup bracket was retained, but needs testing at nearer to maximum trailer load. The hitch needs to be closer to car trailer towing hitches, where over half of the ball is covered by a machined, molded or pressed trailer cup. I may experiment with a locking the retaining arm in position later.----------------------Update 2025-07-19:This appears to be a copy on the Hebie Coupling F1 (max 40 Kg load); there is also Hebie Coupling F3 (max 60Kg load) for surface mounting. All the copies appear to be based upon the F1 model.I discovered to my shock what the two smaller holes on this were actually for; a limit/safety pin, which goes through both holes, with an attached pivot-over spring-clip to hook over the other side, to retain the pin. Why was the F' wasn't this supplied!? 2 more Star dropped for this dangerous safety omission.I may make up for this by adding a through screw to limit level movement, because I already thread-tapped both holes in my adaptor metalwork, or just replace with a better version, maybe the Hebie F1 or F3 parts.

Fitted to my mobility scooter trailer works ok up to now but not had it long so can’t give a definite long term review

keeps pace