Meguiar's1DBK7-25 M0216 Mirror Glaze Fine-Cut Cleaner - 16 oz.

Just the right amount of cut I was looking for I used this on a 65 mustang as part of a last step to some remove swirls, with 47 year old single stage paint I didn't want to over do it and damage the paint. Actually used a microfiber pad on a polisher and got the results I was looking for, a light cut removed deeper swirls and some strange water stains. The dimishing abrasives did the trick and prevented me from over doing it, this is great for vintage cars, allowing you to get you a near perfect paint correction while protecting orginal or old paint.

This Product worked great for polishing an old car before waxing. I would purchase it again.

I somehow scratched a high-gloss gun safe. In the process of trying to buff out the scratch, I made it worse by leaving a million light surface scratches and swirl marks. This stuff took out all the swirl marks, most of the light surface scratches and even lessened the severity of the original scratch. I applied it twice. It was quick, easy, and worked about as well as I could have hoped for. I'll try a couple more applications today to see if I can get even better results, but I'm happy with the significant improvement and I'm a perfectionist.

Since my car is only 2 years old, I chose this Meguiar's #9 Swirl remover as I didn't want to have anything too aggressive. The paint was not in too bad a shape as I always used the 2 bucket hand wash method. Just light swirling on my grabber blue paint. To prepare the surface I washed the car then used Meguiar's clay bar to remove any embedded matter in the paint. Surprising what is in there after only 2 years even though the paint looked clean to the naked eye. After the claying I got out the Porter Cable polisher. Since this is an orbital polisher it is good for anyone who is new to using a power tool on your paint. This was my first time. It was quite simple actually. I mentally divided the hood into 5 section and did one at a time putting an X pattern on the Meguiar's polishing pad with the #9 Swirl remover. I did 4 section passes on each area and then used a microfiber towel to take off the excess polish. I could immediately see that the pad I used (Meguiar's 6.5-Inch Soft Buff Foam Polishing Pad) was just enough to do an excellent job. You see, since the paint was only 2 years old I didn't need a too aggressive polish, or a pad that cut too much. So if your car is in similar condition this may be a good combination for you. This I guess is why you do a test are first and not the whole car. After I was satisfied that this was the right combination, I moved on and finished the car. If it did not do the trick, I could use more pressure, a more aggressive pad, ramp up the speed on the polisher (I used setting 5 for this) or maybe bought a more aggressive polish. I really liked this stuff. Quite easy to do and I wasn't afraid that the polish would burn through my clear coat. I finished it up with Meguiar's liquid Ultimate Wax. The car looked when I waxed it the first time. I might try topping it off with some carnauba wax, but its not really needed.

Wow, what a great product! I have been looking for something like this for a while, what a difference this made for my touch screen on my radio, also the windshield on my Road king! This product even got the scuffs off of the plastic on my Saddlebags!

Bought this to buff out some scuff marks on my daughter's and wife's cars. It took out the light marks, and greatly reduced the heavier marks. Great product for the money. It's helpful that it is easy to apply and remove even without an orbital buffer.

This was my my first attempt using a random orbit/DA buffer to get rid of all the light (?) scratches and swirls on my nautical blue 2014 4Runner LTD. I really try to be diligent and careful, but EVERYTHING seems to affect my 4Runner's finish - microfiber drying, touching while dirty, the California Duster, etc etc. The clear coat is overly susceptible to damage (too soft). My last truck - a Ford - was 13 years old with NO visible damage to the finish. Color had something to do with it (the metallic gold hid it better) , but overall the Ford's finish was just better IMO. Anyways...I wanted to start out using the least aggressive materials possible. So I used this #9 with a light cut foam pad and after two passes with the DA thought "WOW". Not so fast though. Closer inspection under LED light revealed I got rid of the swirls and lightest blemishes but masked the lots of light scratches I presume to be from improper drying or washing (I confess to using a few times out of sheer desperation a silicone brush wash and also a hand car wash that doesn't know how to dry a car right, but living in the Midwest means if I want a clean truck in cold months I sometimes do things I don't want to do or maybe shouldn't do).So why 5 stars then, if it left scratches behind? Because M9 is a light cut only. Like I said I wanted to start with the least aggressive approach. Once I realized I needed more cut, I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound on a heavier cut pad for 3-4 passes. This got the deeper stuff out. THEN I returned to the #9 for a couple light clean up passes. The Ultimate Compound left things in remarkably good shape but the M9 step put lustre back and smoothed out anything caused by the heavier cut products. Note too, I used minimal pressure on the polisher.Still debating if I will do a final pass with Ultimate Polish. It might be redundant. I will for sure use Meguiar's G36516 Paint Protectant by hand for the final step. Then it's on to the rest of the affected areas.Moral of the story: Each product has a purpose. And everything depends on individual situation - type of finish, hardness of clear coat, depth and type of of blemishing, etc etc. You have to experiment. If you are a novice like me, start with the lightest cut and work your way up as needed. It's more work but a minimalist approach is definitely the safest approach. I've learned a lot about this truck and its finish, and what to expect from various products.