FreudNext Generation Premier Fusion General Purpose Saw Blade with TiCo Hi-Density Carbide for Maximum Performance - 10" Diameter, 40 Teeth, Hi-ATB Grind - P410

This is the first thin kerf blade I've bought and used so wasn't sure what to expect. I've only used this a few times but I'm very impressed and happy w/ the cut quality. It quickly cut through 1/2" plywood like butter, leaving a very clean cut on both the top and bottom surfaces. I also ripped about 70 feet of 3/4" poplar and it handled it really well. It didn't bog down my Delta Contractor Table saw that has happened w/ my 1/8" kerf blades. Noise and vibration were low so happy so far w/ the Freud blade.

The only thing this blade can’t do is cut a square flat bottom. Other than that, WOW!

This blade is one of my favorites works just as good as a forest blade and half the price.

This is not a dedicated crosscut blade, but new, it gives incredible crosscuts. Better than it should be able to. I tried Cherry, Oak, and Pine, pretty easy to crosscut, and it did fine. I then tried various plywood products, some with very delicate veneers. All cuts unsupported as the blade exited to see what it could do. No scoring, pre-cutting a kerf, taping, or any other method to minimize tear-out. The lack of tear-out was amazing. Much better than my previous 50 tooth combo blade. I think the high ATB is the difference. (And due to the high ATB, you better be careful handling this blade, especially when new. It bites.As far a ripping goes, it is good enough to not get past my laziness on most rips. I have a 24 toot ripping blade, but almost never need to use it for sub 1.5inch thick rips.This may be obvious, but this is not a contender for hogging out dados, etc. The bottom of the cut will be extremely uneven due to the Hi-ATB.My first blade arrive with a broken tooth. It has obviously been dropped before shipping. Freud could use better packaging with more crush zones. Of course, that might cost more than just replacing damaged blades. Whatever, I did not ding anyone, since Amazon replaced the blade immediately. Point being, inspect the packaging and the teeth when you get receive the blade. Carbide is very brittle and does not handle drops well. I would replace any blade that had been dropped, even if not showing a broken tooth. Picking carbide out of my face is not something I want to do.

I was a little wary when buying this at first. I do fine woodworking that requires perfect cuts on all my edges. This does it without the need to sand them before gluing. HOWEVER, it does depend on the type of wood, and of course your table saw itself. My last gripe is that the red comes off. This sucks. It's not terrible, and doesn't always come off, but on denser woods that have a lot more friction to offer, you may get a few streaks of red. I use a Dewalt - DWE7480 Table Saw. I do not have a stabilizer on my blade, yet. However, this hardly wobbles at all. Only reason I am getting one is because of the accuracy I need on my cuts (.05 of a degree off and it's not good for me). If you are trying to decide between this and a forrest II, get the forrest II. I have used both, and the forrest II is better at getting through your wood, with smoother cuts. You will need a stabilizer on the forrest II. If you are just looking for a decent blade to do projects around the house with, the Freud is perfectly OK, even OK for most fine woodworking.I will give a list of how it cuts certain types of woods (I use a lot of different types), and on a scale of 1-5 how well it did.1 = Poor, tearout is in large chunks and unavoidable, 2 = still pretty bad, though tearout is smaller chunks, 3 = decent, with minimal tearout, 4 = amazing, with hardly any tearout, and close to glue ready cuts (if not glue ready) 5 = virtually no tearout, and baby smooth cuts.Pine:Cross Cut: 3, pine being a soft wood that does chip a lot, this is not unexpected. Still better than any diablo blade.Rip Cut: 4, comes out perfect almost every time.Oak:Cross Cut: 3.5 better than pine, with very, very minimal tearout that is hardly noticeableRip Cut: 3.5, I haven't done a lot of oak on this yet, and it may have been due to the oak I had being a little drier than normal. All in all, still a really good cutWalnut:Cross Cut: 4, While it could get better, a 4 for an all purpose blade is more than impressive.Rip Cut: 4.5, Walnut is pretty easy to work with anyways, but it comes out perfect on this guyRedwood:Cross Cut: 4, if you have ever worked with redwood, you know that it's one of the easiest woods to work with anyways.Rip Cut: 5 No tearout. zero, zero, zero.Padauk:Cross Cut: 4, padauk is like working with hard chalk, so you never really get tearout on either end, but you will see some on your crosscuts from time to time, albeit rare.Rip Cut: 4.5, almost perfect every single time.Mahogany:Cross Cut:4Rip Cut: 4Manzanita Wood: (rather dense, i believe about a 2400 on Janka?):Cross Cut: 3.5, not perfect smooth, but no tearout. Manzanita isn't prone to tearout anyways. Keep in mind, this is for a 3" thick piece, a thinner piece would have come out much smoother. I wouldn't go above 1.5" for woods this dense, or denser.Rip Cut: 4, no tearout, but this being on the higher end of dense, hard wood, it does take it's sweet time. I was cutting through a 3" thick piece though, and it got through it with no qualms, just 1 red mark from the blade itself.Bloodwood: 2900 Janka (densest wood I have cut with this blade yet), done on .25"Cross Cut: 4, hardly any tearout, with a somewhat smooth end cut. Glue ready for sure.Rip Cut: 4 also glue ready, and also smooth. Got through .25" just fine.Hope this helps with the ever ongoing pursuit of the perfect blade. :D

I bought this blade for my table saw, and I have done everything imaginable with it. The tooth pattern doesn't leave a flat kerf, but for your general purpose every day use? I've got nothing but good things to say about it. It cuts great, it's stayed crazy sharp. This is a great saw blade for the price.If you're like me, you might be wondering if it's really worth it to spend that extra money on Freud instead of Diablo. Which isn't a bad argument, especially in '22. I had the same questions and finally pulled the trigger and there's no comparison! You can see in my picture and get an idea of what I noticed before anything else and it was the teeth, no they're not the same blade but the 12 inch Diablo blade had nowhere near the steel to resharpen that the 10 inch Freud has. Seriously Diablo probably has half the teeth, and despite having always had good results it was nowhere close to as sharp as the Freud.If you're wondering about making the jump...Do it! Freud is completely worth it, and I don't think you'll be disappointed. I know I'm already moving to Freud for my miter saw's blade as soon as necessary.

Works perfect.