EpsonHome Cinema 3800 4K PRO-UHD 3-Chip Projector with HDR

Update: I upgraded my receiver to a Yamaha 385 and my HTPC graphics card to a Geforce 1650 and a couple 8k rated 3ft hdmi cables for the computer and my PS4. NOW I am running full 4k HDR signal from my computer and not surprisingly I had to re-calibrate the picture. It looked terrible with the settings I had set up for the 1080p SDR signal. Even resetting everything to default wasn't great. Here's what I ended up with:Brightness=44 Contrast=24 Color Saturation=55 Color Temp=8 GMCorrection=4With the 4k HDR signal I did not need to adjust the RGBCMY levels at all, default values gave me a well balanced color chart (from calibration disc) with no color clipping at the high end like it did with the SDR signal.I still have my top 4 white levels turned down because they're too bright, but I think I figured out how to deal with that better. Apparently 4k HDR projectors perform better with a lower gain grey-screen which would make blacks darker and help tone down the intensity of the white levels. I plan on upgrading to a Qualgear 120" High Contrast Gray screen at 0.9 Gain, with tensioners to keep the surface as flat as possible. I have a few areas of my screen that are not focused right, and I suspect it might be due to the wall not being truly flat. Also, it's almost impossible to get as smooth of a surface as the tensioned screens using latex paint on a wall. So hanging a new low gain tensioned screen will give me multiple improvements at once as well as a bonus of maxing out my screen size potential at my given throw distance. Going from 104" to a 120" should be quite noticeably larger and hopefully make better use of this projectors incredibly bright image.In light of all this I've bumped my rating from 4 to 5 stars. I absolutely love it and am glad I wend 3LCD over a new DLP. Even 1080p video upscaled on my computer looks far better than it did on my old 1080p DLP projector. It's considerably better than the projector's own 4k upscaling. Watching 4k HDR video is amazing! My wife didn't think she would notice the difference and I proved her wrong. She loves it too and now isn't as mad at me for spending so much on the upgrades. LOL...Original review for 1080 SDR input:Just got this a few days ago and decided to leave a review now that I have it all setup and calibrated. First of all my setup is in a smallish light-controlled home theater with a 104" DIY screen on the wall painted with a pure white matte latex that should provide about 1.0 gain, and surrounded with trim covered in black felt. Dark walls and a dark vaulted ceiling which extends far above the top of my screen. Projector throw distance is about 11' 6".First impressions were just how much larger this unit is than my old DLP projector, easily more than twice as big and required me to purchase a new ceiling mount with arms capable of spanning about 14" diagonal for the mounting screw locations and supporting the roughly 15lbs of weight. I chose the QualGear PRB-717-WHT mount which fit my needs well and worked great on my vaulted ceiling.My mounting height was never right on my DLP projector which forced me to angle it a bit and use keystone correction to fix the out-of-square result. The problem with using keystone is that it does distort your image a little in order to make it appear square. This Epson projector has so much lens shift up and down and side to side that you ideally should not ever need to use keystone. I just kept adjusting the angle of the projector and shifting the image back onto my screen until I got the image all squared up, no keystone required!I bought a new 30ft fiber HDMI 2.0b cable to run from my receiver unit to the projector, which works well. However my receiver and my theater PC currently only support 1080p output. Now that I have a 4k HDR10 capable projector, I plan to shell out another $500 to upgrade my graphics card and receiver unit. So as a disclaimer, I have not yet tested this projector with a true 4k HDR signal. However it's proven very adept at upscaling my 1080p signal with 4k enhancement that is clearly superior to my old 1080p DLP projector.Out of box settings were very impressive, but extremely bright and over-saturated in my short throw light-controlled theater. Even turning the projector down with ECO mode still had blaring bright whites and eye popping color saturation, specifically reds and blues.Calibrating the unit....VERY FIRST THING TO DO: After getting projector mounted, adjusted and focused, and switched into ECO mode, you should do a panel alignment. This lets you accurately adjust the alignment between the red, green, and blue images on your screen and is critical to producing an accurate image and should be done before you adjust anything else. Green panel is not adjustable, you just have to adjust red and blue panels to align with the green one. I suggest switching the color mode to match which color you are adjusting rather than leaving the other color also showing. This will help you see where the lines are at. Adjust each corner first, then look around the screen at all the intersections for any misalignment until you can no longer see the red or blue lines diverging anywhere on the screen.For the rest of the calibrations, I used the AVS Calibration disc you can download from their website. First you set brightness using the flashing black bar screens, then adjust contrast with the flashing white/grey bar screen. Those will tune in your grey scale settings which are the basis of any image being displayed correctly and completely. Then you have to adjust your color settings. I did this with the Advanced> RBGCMY setting and the corresponding color bar chart from the calibration disc. Yellow and cyan bars were fine, showing clear delineation all the was up the scale. Red, green, blue, and magenta colors were clipped at the top bar and required reducing their saturation levels individually until the top bar had a clear delineation between it and the next bar. I didn't change Hue or Brightness settings (default is 50). Once these were all adjusted the resulting picture looked much more natural and balanced with full grey scale details from white all the way to the very deep blacks that this projector can display.I still had one issue though, the whites were unbearably bright. Eye scorching to the point that very bright scenes or bright objects in a dark scene where not comfortable to watch and would definitely lead to eye fatigue, not to mention how distracting it was to the rest of the image. LUCKILY, I found that this projector offers a way to control this intensity in a way I have not seen before. Under the White Balance settings, you have color temp which I set to 7, G-M Correction which I set to 0, Custom which I didn't touch, and finally Grayscale which is where you need to go to tone down the brightness of whites on the screen. This gives you 8 levels of white to adjust, 1 being the darkest and 8 being 100% white. I turned levels 6 thru 8 down to -50 (as far as you can go), and level 5 I set it to -20, 1 thru 4 I left at full brightness. This resulted in a dramatically more enjoyable viewing experience and reduced eye strain.Here's my what I ended up with for the main settings:Brightness: 53Contrast: 7Color Saturation: default (individual saturation set with RGBCMY settings for better saturation balance)Tint: defaultSharpness: All 0Color Temp: 7GM Correction:0Grayscale: levels 8-6 @ -50, level 5 @ -20, levels 1-4 @ 0Noise Reduction:15MPEG Noise Reduction: 2Super-resolution and Detail Enhancement: default valuesRGBCMY saturation adjustments: R=30 G=40 B=30 C=50 M=30 Y=50. (default is 50)Conclusions: I am very happy with this projector so far and am glad that there are adequate adjustment settings to get it dialed in because it really was not acceptable with the out of the box settings. I'm still not sure why the whites were so dang bright even in eco mode. White objects were almost blinding and made me feel like I had double vision and a hard time focusing on the screen. Luckily the greyscale settings helped fix that. It almost could use a setting lower than -50 for the top 3 white levels. I am absolutely loving the new level of detail and the complete lack of rainbow effect that I had experienced with the DLP projectors, it's one of the main reasons I bought this Epson rather than a newer 4K DLP projector from Optoma. I am excited to get the rest of my system upgraded to HDR10 level so I can experience the full potential of this projector, but for now even with a 1080p input it is blowing my old DLP out of the water on picture quality.

I purchased an Epson 3700 in 2016 and I have been very happy with it. I have a 150" wall screen in my great room with plenty of ambient light have had no issues. I use it for sports, news, movies, and 3d (the surprise impressive feature, I now own 100+ 3d movies).I've been reluctant to make the jump to 4K because let's face it...1. It's a lot of work to update all of your components to 4K.2. True 4K projectors are really expensive.3. Most true 4K projectors are not yet bright enough for my ambient light filled great room.4. Most material is 720P or 1080i, and that would need to be upscaled to 4K, so depending on how good a job the upscaler does I may or may not get good results for the majority of my material.5. I have a lot of 3d now and that is all 1080P, so same issue as #4 (and I need to make sure I have 3d support in any new projector).When I saw Epson's new entry in the market I was intrigued. It is basically identical to my 3700 (same size, lens, bulb, etc.) and supports all the previous features (3d, etc.) and they added the 4K/HDR support using pixel shifting (i.e. converting each 4K pixel into two 2K frames played rapidly and shifted) rather than using a native 4K panel. In my mind this is an excellent compromise that solves a lot of the above issues for me. The price is about the same as the previous model, it is still a native 1080p projector (so no upscaling issues for most material or for 3d), and it is just as bright as before.The real question is how good is 4K using pixel shifting? Most side by side reviews conclude human beings really can't tell the difference.During these covid times I've been working from home so I decided that this and other home upgrades were in order. Last month I upgraded the AV Receiver and Blu-Ray Player. This week I ran a new 8K HDMI cable through the ceiling, installed a new mount, and replaced the 3700 with the 3800.So if you own a 3700 can 4K alone justify the upgrade? Well in my case I have a 150" screen and I only sit 10-15' away so 4K should make a noticeable difference in my viewing experience.To test I used both Amazon Prime 4K material and UHD Blu-Ray material. On Amazon Prime search for "4K demo" for a list of excellent material. I used the IMAX movie "The Living Sea", which Amazon has in 4K UHD/HDR. I used the Blu-Ray players 4K Amazon Prime app to freeze test frames and then switched sources to my 1080P FireTV stick freezing the same frames. The best test frame was one of a sunrise just coming over the horizon lighting the ocean below, clouds above, and silhouetting a mountain range. The comparison of the 2 was night and day. the 4K had fine detail in the mountain range, ocean and clouds not present in the 1080p version, and the HDR bought out highlights in the clouds and water that were completely washed out in the non HDR 1080p version. I got similar excellent results with "The Last Reef" using both Blu-Ray an UHD HDR material.So the answer for me is YES! It looks like 4K to me and on a large screen you really can tell the difference.The pictures I included show how much light I have in the room during the day, and then 2 pictures of a really zoomed in section of a freeze frame the movie I referenced above "The Living Sea". It is the sun rising above the ocean. One of the pictures is 1080P and the other is 4K. It's pretty easy to tell which is which. If you look closely you can see the pixel structure in the 1080P picture, but it is barely noticeable in the 4K picture.Update: As some have commented on inability to focus across the entire screen. I had to work on the projector position a bit as I had a similar experience, but after I pointed the projector "slightly up" (still no keystoning), and used lens shift to bring the image down I was able to get a completely uniform focus at all sections of the screen. I added a picture of the Panel Alignment pattern to show it is sharp on all locations of the screen (the missing lines are due to my black velvet screen masking). Maybe I got lucky with mine but I've had no issues with focus or blurring after adjusting.Very happy with my purchase of the 3800!