Magene Power Meter for Cycling, PES Crankarm + P505 Spider-Based Power Meter, 110 BCD 4 Bolt, 24mm Steel Spindle, ANT+/Bluetooth

Let me first admit, mine is not a typical usage of this product.I'm 64 and I put a moderate 15-minute spin on my exercise bike every other day, just to "clear the cobwebs". The bike is a 25-year-old felt-pad-resistance type and I keep it on a covered outdoor patio. The problem I encountered is: It's anybody's guess how much work I'm putting out from one workout to the next. Am I doing better? Am I getting worse? The actual resistance is dependent not only on the tension knob but also the weather conditions, the inherent inaccuracy (backlash) of the tension mechanism itself, whether the felt pads are damp, how far pads have heated up from my peddling so far, etc. I want to do a consistent caloric output (or wattage output) on every workout.So I decided to get this metering crank. The nice thing about this is it doesn't matter if your bike cost $5000 or $5, is stationary or road, this measures output at the crank via an internal strain sensor.My exercise bike had a standard (aka Ashtabula, American) bottom bracket (BB), so before I could install this thing I had to do a two-phase BB conversion. Phase one goes from Ashtabula to Euro (aka BSC, BC, ISO, British) See "Black Ops BB Conversion Kit American to Euro", which is essentially just a pair of internally threaded bushings. Phase two goes from Euro to PF41 (aka BB86, PF24, Shimano 24mm) using the Shimano BB-MT801 kit. Look on YouTube if you need your hand held doing either of these.Since my exercise bike had 1/2 thread pedals, I also had to buy a new set. This crank uses standard 5/8 thread pedals.UPDATE: It seems I sold myself short. After months of using this crank and witnessing my performance actually decline, I was a bit incredulous. So I tried the OneLapFit "zero calibration" function for my crank (which I probably should have done immediately after installing). Now my new normal continuous NP power reports as 121W. Take that you young whipper-snappers.Oh, and I also had to get a 4-arm chain ring with 52 teeth and a 110 BCD. The 52 teeth matches my bike's original chain ring, which lacked the bolt holes.The documentation is really sparse. The assy diagrams are good, but there's no text, just pictures. I suppose they're trying to be universal. What do the LEDs mean during charging? Where do I go and download the app? No mention.I'm not a bike mechanic and have never worked on bikes, but the hardware installation went smoothly. Just be aware that most of the parts are dedicated right or left and have right or left hand threads. Don't go forcing anything. Watching the YouTube vids before you assemble is a must.Also, unless you're an enthusiast, you probably won't know this: In order to get a summary of your workout, like I do, you will need a bike computer. Not wanting to do a week of research on what was the best computer to get, I just went with the Magene C406 --which ended up working fine. See my separate product review of that.So now I can report that I can do 45W average power output for 15 minutes and moderate effort, with a 42 cadence, and pretty good left/right balance. That's nothing to be proud of, but probably OK for age 64.UPDATE:

solo llevo 1 mes pero hasta ahora cumple con lo ofrecido, eso si calibrar primero

I bought the Magene PES power meter, and the battery would not charge. I contacted Magene support and suggested I reset the battery using two of the proprietary charging cables. Of course, I did not have two charging cables so I used a second method using a magnet. This didn't make any difference, and I returned the device. As soon as the return was confirmed, I ordered a second Magene PES power meter. The second unit has worked perfectly. It charged immediately and then pairing the meter to the Garmin head unit went flawlessly. I've had the meter for a month and have ridden about 120 km with it.

I received it yesterday , i have Scott addict with shimano 105 drivetrain . My bike mechanic installed it for me without any problems , he used the original shimano chainrings . I charged the meter , downloaded the app and requested the code several times without receiving a response . Finally i checked the junk mail folder and found the code. After a few attempts the app found the power meter . I took it on one ride , it updated quite rapidly , I hit 400 watts going up hills but only for a few seconds before i started to slow down . Now i will ride the watts to keep my rides intense . I also have a very accurate estimate of the calories burned . So far I love it . I will be updating . Too bad I can’t figure out how to get a few extra charging cords . I may have to call Magene .Magene responded to my email with a link showing where to buy extra charging cables, I ordered 2 for my piece of mind , it will be shipped from china . I think they should ship the power meter with an extra charging cable .I did my second ride today with the power meter , it functioned flawlessly , it updated quickly , it showed 100-150 watts on level roads , 250-300 watts with the slightest hills . My Cyclemeter app paired easily with the power meter , it shows that battery level is still 100% after 2 rides . The power meter paired easily with my Garmin edge 830 , I created a data screen showing watts and cadence , along with radar and wind data . I hate clutter . So far so good .

Thus far I’ve put on around 600 miles with these cranks and all is going well. As I already had a Shimano bottom bracket and crankset the move to the Magene PES P505 power meter was simple: remove the old Shimano crank, assemble the PES crankset, move over the chainrings (with their Shimano bolts), tighten everything to proper torque specifications, and go! After approximately 100 miles of riding, re-check torque - all good!I used a known-good set of Favero Assioma power meter pedals to compare readings and the Magene unit was within 0.5-1 percent in terms of power readings - so basically a 1:1 equivalent.You will need a flat interface, open-ended external bottom bracket wrench to install the power meter spider on the crankarms - worth buying at the same time as the cranks if one isn’t in the tool kit already. And if you need chainrings the Magene ones are good, tho Shimano 4-bolt 110mm BCD units for recent vintage 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace work well and probably shift better - you’ll need Shimano’s bolts if not moving them from an existing Shimano crankset.Also: be sure to use blue thread locking compound on the chainring bolts and the power meter spider, and lightly grease the left crankarm to crank axle interface (or use nickel-based anti-seize fluid). The bolt on the left crankarm has blue thread locker pre-applied. And be sure to double-check torque values after around 100 miles of “bed in” as things can loosen with use.Otherwise: it is a solid crankset for a bargain price, easily as good as a SRAM/Quarq unit.