PARMIDA 20-Pack 4FT LED T8 Ballast Bypass Type B Light Tube, 18W, UL-Listed for Single-Ended & Dual-Ended Connection, 2200lm, Frosted Lens, T8 T10 T12, UL, FCC - 5000K

Easy to install. Came with wiring diagram. Super bright. Really made a HUGE difference in my garage. Would recommend. Will by more. First fixture took a little bit to convert, the rest were simple and quicker.

I had 10 two light electronic ballasted fixtures in my workshop. Bulbs were failing. The still functioning bulbs were dimming. Ordered these Parmidia T8 ballast bypass 4 ft bulbs. Once I figured out how to eliminate the ballast and re-wire the first fixture, the remaining 9 were easy to speed through. Total project took 3 hours. The Parmidia bulbs are wonderfully packaged. Wiring instructions were helpful, as well as some Youtube videos. Each of the 20 bulbs worked right out of the box. The 5000 kelvin is perfect for a workshop where you want maimum clear white light. Good product. Place your old florescent bulbs in the now empty Parmidia box and recycle them, along with the old ballasts.

Finally some florescent light fixture replacement bulbs that are affordable and offer you more than one wiring option. The fixtures in my basement shop are all 4 tube fixtures with ballasts. One of them went bad and the other two had bulbs that needed replaced. I had the florescent bulbs because they are so easy to break and they don't always last that long. The humming of the transformers after 20 plus years was also a nuisance!! I was looking for the best affordable solution. Parmida LED tubes are the answer!!! You can use your existing fixture and order the type of tube that you need. In my case, I wanted to get rid of the ballasts that rob you of electricity and cost you money, so I did not want the direct replacement tubes. Instead get these tubes. They take a little bit of work but do not let other reviews make you think that you have to be an engineer to replace these in your current fixture. The first one took me about 30 minutes because I pulled everything out of the overhead. The second and third ones took me about 10 minutes each. Since you can power these tube from one end only or from both ends, I chose to power from one end only. All you need is a meter, side cutters, a wire stripper, black tape, a black marker, and a step stool. I removed the old bulbs and exposed the ballasts and wires. I removed the wire nuts from the incoming power to remove the wires to the ballasts. I put the wire caps back on the exposed incoming power wires. Then I used the side cutters to cut the wires to the tube power strip on the right, leaving them long enough to reach the incoming power lines. Then I cut the wires to the tube power strip very short and taped them so they could not touch anything. They I removed the transformers and discarded them. Next I used the meter to determine which wire on the right power strip would connect to the left post of the LED tube. I used the black maker to mark these wires, 4 of them. I stripped these wires back about an inch and twisted them. The remaining 4 wires, were stripped and twisted the same. I then used the meter to test that all the wires in the bundles were on the left post for the black marked wires and on the right post for the unmarked wires. I attached the black marked wires to the load power wire on the fixture's incoming power with the wire nut, and the unmarked wires to the common wire on the incoming power with the wire nut. Last I put the LED tubes in the fixture, closed up the cover and turned on the power!!! What a great improvement in lighting!!!!

I used these to replace all the old T-12 fluorescent bulbs in my workshop. At first, I was confused how they could be used both single-ended or double-ended. I pulled out my led-strip tester and checked. Sure enough, the tubes lit up with load and neutral applied at one end. Also lit with load and neutral applied on opposite ends. So, apparently the light have smart circuitry which automatically switches to match the power input. Cool! The tubes themselves are quite sturdy, as well. Installation: It was fairly simple to cut out the old ballasts and wiring in my hodgepodge of fixtures (once I figured out how to open some of them). I re-wired all the tombstones on the power supply end of the fixture for single-ended use. I only used black and white wires to avoid confusion with the multi-colored wires originally used for the ballasts. I completely removed the wires from the null end tombstones which now act only as support for the led bulbs. Makes a very neat job. All 20 bulbs arrived well packaged in divided foam trays. All are working perfectly. In my 4-bulb fixtures, I only needed to install three led tubes to surpass the brightness of the original 4 fluorescent tubes. Satisfaction: 5,000K was perfect for my 8 foot ceiling height. My workshop is now brighter than ever without being too bright (if that makes sense), and operating for much lower cost. My wattage consumption is reduced by more than half. Now, if they last their life expectancy, my life will be perfect. I highly recommend these bulbs.

easy install for a novice. nice and bright. unfortunately, one bulb not working out of 20 in the box.

Twenty in the box, the packaging was excellent, with fitted foam sheets inside sturdy cardboard. (I grieve to be using so much non-recyclable foam, and even recyclable cardboard, but few companies are willing to use available alternatives). I have installed 16 of the 20, all perfect. If you use the "two end" installation method, you do not have to change out the non-shunted connectors (tombstones) that are found in most old ballast-driven florescent fixtures. Changing out the old connectors is a pain. Anyway, first turn off the power!!! and cut all the wires near the ballast, and remove the wire nuts on the line, neutral, and ground wires. Save the full length of all the wires as you may need them. Drop the ballast out and then, using the provided wiring diagram, reattach the wires directly to the power leads, black connecting the wires to one end, and white to the other. Take note that the wiring on the line end is slightly different that for the neutral end. Not difficult, but requires thought and a test before your put everything back together.