Scosche LOC2SL Line Output Converter with Remote Control Knob - 2CH High/Low RCA Converter Car Audio - Ideal for Subwoofer Amp - Line Level Converter for Car Stereo - Easy Installation - Quality Sound

Excellent product works very well. A little time to install. But, installed in a trunk. Lol

Got this installed in my 2008 Toyota Avalon XL after a painstaking process... And it sounds great! I'm using it to power a 750w amp and two 350w subs with my stock head unit. Note, Camrys of this generation have the same wiring colors. Didn't have to adjust the gains for my left or right channels, just tapped into the rear speakers (Left Rear - Yellow with Grey stripes (+) , Black with Grey stripes (-). Right rear - Red with Grey stripes (+), White with Grey stripes (-). I tapped into them on the seat belt column area. I suppose you could do it at the head unit, but I felt safer doing it behind the seatbelt column panel. You can tell they're the speaker wires because they're the only wires intertwined together. The rest of the wires on the harness are not. I used wire taps where you crimp two wires next to each other together with a piece of metal, so I didn't have to cut wires. To get the 12v constant, I simply crimped the wire to a 5A fused line, then crimped it to an extra wire, which I stuck into the "B+" input on my amp, joining it with the power line from the battery. For the ground I did the same thing, routed the wire to the GND input on my amp with the ground wire stuffed in there. The Remote wire actually works very well and for now, has not given me issues. I was relived to not have to route another remote wire from some electrical part of the car, and I could just crimp a wire onto the remote wire from the LOC and connect it to my amp. It only turns the amp on when the radio is on. Perfect. My only fear is if the LOC Remote wire circuit malfunctions for some reason and causes my amp to kill my battery or something. Maybe there's a protection built in for that. Didn't seem to work at first and I thought it might be defective, but I re-did a few connections and it worked! I noticed more bass immediately and knew it wasn't my interior speakers. I connected the bass control knob, which I routed through the interior panels and it works flawlessly! It has a very wide range and is quite sensitive, at least for my set up. Turning it all the way down will essentially turn your sub off, so that's nice for when you need to go incognito! Couldn't be any happier with this. I didn't want to mess around with an aftermarket headunit so I decided to save myself a lot of headache and money. This will do the trick as long as you can tap into the right and left positive and negatives. Of your speakers.

Decided to give this scosche LOC2SL line converter a shot before buying an audio control LC1i as what I would usually use in this situation. Used in my new 2010 Silverado LT 1500 crew cab so I could keep the stock head unit for the time being. Have never used this scosche brand line output converter and honestly didn’t have the highest hopes but for my set up it honestly works phenomenally. Wired in the line converter as explained in the instructions which are very clear and easy to understand. Rear left +/- and rear right +/- wires soldered to both rear +/- factory speaker wires, ran its own ground to chassis and ran the 12v power right to the amplifiers power wire connection as in the instructions they state that is fine to do, originally I had a add-a-fuse I was going to run to ignition for the power wire but would have been an extra 8’ of 16ga. Wire to run since I have line converted mounted next to amp on the back wall in my crew cab, was skeptical about running line converters 12v power with amps power wire as it would be hot at all times but after you shut your vehicle off and your radio turns off completely the line converter will shut off and signal to amp will be cut off within 5min which is great. I didn’t touch the gain control for left or right input lines on the line converter but did hook up and install the bass knob as my amp does not have one. This scosche line converter is sending signal to a Kenwood 1000w class D mono amplifier pushing a kicker solobaric 10. This entire system minus line converter was used in my previous truck and is all set up and calibrated to how like. Hooking line converter to amp I didn’t have to adjust any amp settings whatsoever. Wouldn’t know i was even using a line converter bass is nice and clean, no difference from the RCAs hooked up to my old head unit. The bass knob is a nice feature I rarely use it but it is nice to tone down or crank bass up a little bit whenever you want. I did solder all wires from factory speaker wires to line converter and would recommend to do the same when you install yours. Have since ordered another one of these scosche line converters to install in my wife’s 15’ equinox in the next few days. If you have high end amp(s) and subs I would probably recommend still getting a AudioControl brand line output converter as they offer more fine tuning to your signal, otherwise this Scosche LOC2SL line output converter works phenomenally and the price is great too! Ps have installed the Amazon brand sound deadening mat throughout this 2010 Silverado crew cab and it made a massive difference in bass/music and also cutting down on road noise from the outside. ( you can easily wipe the Amazon logo off with isopropyl alcohol on a rag)

I bought this for my son's sub amp and speaker installation. He had received an amp and a pair of 12 inch subs for Christmas. I needed this to tap into the high level speaker lines for the signal for the amp. The installation seemed straightforward enough but I encountered several problems. Once the system was wired exactly as specified by this and by the amp wiring diagram the system worked and sounded good. All seemed well. We went to bed that night and guess what......the next morning the battery was dead in the car. Out came the charger and that issue was resolved. The next day.....the same thing. A complete check of the wiring showed no stray strands, no bare wires pushed too far in grounding on the amp case, etc. There were no points where any wires were rubbed bare against metal, etc. Much research really turned up nothing so I took matters into my own hands. I disconnected both the hot wire going to the amp itself and also the so called remote turn on wire from this LOC going to the amp and guess what.....no more dead battery. I played with the car a couple of days, played the normal stereo, etc. and all worked fine as before. This made me confident that something was going on with this box, the amp or a combination of the two. Since my son is off at college 100 miles away a dead battery in the morning when leaving for school is not an option. I did some more research and bought a Stinger relay for the main 4 ga power wire. I cut my feed wire, ran it through the contacts on the relay and then wired the coil of the Stinger across a low usage relay in the relay fuse block under the hood. Then to be doubly safe I bought a little $5 four pin relay from the auto parts house and powered the coil off the feed wire for the amp and the ground. Then I ran the remote turn on through the contacts and viola......no more dead battery issues. The car has been ran for a week now with no problems, the volts are staying exactly where they should be, etc. This combination means that the amp has no power until the car key is turned and energizes the Stinger. Then the feed through the Stinger gives power to the other relay to complete the remote turn on circuit. Then if the radio system is turned on the remote turn on will let the amp energize and we have sub sounds. I really have no complete knowledge of what the issue was but just that this box did not work as it should have based on expectations. My son's car has the fancy Microsoft Sync hands free live telephone system and communication package so I have gleaned some knowledge since you can basically speak and the system will power up and allow you to make hands free phone calls or texts, that there must be a low level live signal coming to the speakers that effectively makes this LOC keep the amp on standby even though the amp power light is off. My wiring solution solves all that. With all being said and done.....the LOC works well, we have the sounds we wanted and everyone is pleased. I would recommend this LOC but would just advise you to take my mods into consideration if you encounter issues like I did.

Works well if you install it correctly. Bass control knob is pretty handy. Works well in 2003 gmc Sonoma with a factory head unit and I’m sure it’ll work in just about any vehicle if you know what you’re doing. Sounds amazing, no feedback issues. The little tool to adjust the gain is pretty easy to lose though.

Works amazing with factory system in my car

I didn’t use it but it looks better than the old school one from 2014 or 15 but after seeing the reviews I ordered the ct sounds one but I have used this one in the past in a Acura tsx with no issues that ik of everything worked as it should back then I didn’t care about the signals it gave out just wanted it to work and it did but as you grow you learn

Great line converter. Remote worked well.

شي قوي

This bit of kit is fantastic works as it should easy to plum in im getting another one for my bmw to wire up my subs with the factory headunit can't rate enuf

Very good adapter 👍👍👍👍

The install was fairly straight forward. Just a word of warning. If you don’t need the remote line to power on and off your amp, don’t connect the power cables to the LOC. Just hook up the speaker wire connections and you’re good to go. I don’t need a remote amp power on because I’ve got the amp hooked up via an on off switch and 12v line. Still when I hooked up the power wires to the LOC, I was finding that the car battery was clearly getting drained the next day when I tried to start it up. I then disconnected the power and ground wires from the LOC, and my car battery has been fine ever since.

Have purchased 3 of these over the last few years for various cars and never had any issues.