JLD Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins (#AN3694)

I recently put the Bridge Doctor in a 50 year old Martin D12-28 12-string that had been carelessly stored for the past 20 years and had developed a large belly bulge causing the bridge to tilt significantly toward the sound hole resulting poor action and poor intonation. This is a common problem with 12-strings due to the extra string tension on the soundboard. Some research which led me to two methods to correct belly bulge. The first was to remove the bridge and clamp two hot plates around the bridge area then wait - sounded like an expensive trip to a luthier. The other was the Bridge Doctor. The reviews were encouraging and installation looked to be pretty simple, so before taking the guitar to a luthier, I gave it a try. Although the brass pins version is recommended for 12-strings, I went with the screw version. I didn't like the look of the brass pins and was concerned about not having enough break angle - plus the brass pin version cost more than twice as much. Installation was easy. I used a screw driver type handle that accepted my drill bits, allowing me good control. After I'd cut the rod to length and made sure it contacted the tail block, I tightened it in with the Allen screw, being careful not to overtighten. I'd expected it would take some time for the soundboard and bridge to adjust, and would be followed by additional tightening. However, I was surprised to find that even after the initial installation, the bulk of the belly bulge was already gone and the bridge tilt was much improved. Over the next week, I have checked the tension on the Allen screw every couple days and found that I was able to give it 1/2 turn the first time, a 1/4 turn the 2nd, since then it's stayed about the same. I left it like that for a couple months to give it time to get used to the changes. The result? When I started, the belly bulge measured over 6mm - now it's about 1mm, about the same as my new D-18. The bridge tilt has leveled significantly, so that now, both the action and the intonation are improved. It did not remove much of the soundboard dip around the soundhole. Note that the Bridge Doctor will change the tone so that the top end loses brightness if it is adjusted too tight. So, after the belly was reduced and the top stabilized, I loosened the Bridge Doctor so it was just snug enough to keep the belly from coming back. This restored most of its brightness. The Bridge Doctor saved me hundreds of dollars that I'd have had to pay a luthier to fix this guitar. I now have a guitar that plays great and saved a lot of money. What's not to like? Got an older 12-string that starting to show some belly bulge? Install Bridge Doctor, or take it to your luthier and have them install one for you. It'll remove the bulge you have and prevent it from coming back. One thing to note, the dot which was provided to go into the screw hole in the bridge is black, not abalone. This would have worked better for me anyway as all my bridge pins are black, but instead I made a wooden plug cut to an exact fit and stained it to match my rosewood bridge. Also, using a bridge doctor and bridge plate mounted piezo pickups can't be used together - only one or the other.

Bought and installed this as a last chance attempt to save an old favorite Washburn acoustic guitar. It works exactly as advertised. It was a 100% success for me. A complete save and the sound is as good as it was originally from what I can tell. I would do this install again without hesitation.

Works great on my 1974 Yamaha 12 string. It was easy for me to install by myself, and took out the belly. It rings like a bell again.

Works every time

It does what it claims. It's not a combination neck reset and top flattening, but it does reduce the bow in the top considerably. I have a 1963 Guild F-30 that I bought new. I didn't take very good care of it when I was younger and the top has a pronounced bow. It's a very nice sounding guitar. It's horrible looking and people are often surprised by the sound. I figured that the worst that would happen would be that the device wouldn't do anything. One little installation surprise was that I had to cut it down a bit. It was bigger than the cross section of the body under the bridge plate. A couple minutes with a razor saw solved that. The rest of the installation was a snap. To drill the hole in the bridge I made a pilot hole with an electric drill and then used a quick change bit in a ratchet screw driver to enlarge the screw hole. No problems. If I did a couple of these I think I could get the installation time down to under 30 minutes. I've adjusted it a couple of times and reduced the bow. Bonus, there is a bit more sustain. Because the neck angle is changed there is a bit of buzz that wasn't there before. I haven't gotten around to that yet. All in all this is a good way to improve a guitar you care about but don't want to spend a huge amount on. This is much cheaper than getting the top flattened professionally. It improves the action and, in my case, changed the tone a bit for the better. Expect to need some set up after installation. You are changing the geometry of the guitar. One con. The piece of plastic described as MOP was dark grey in mine. I used a bit of silicone putty to anchor it in the hole.

This work great in my old 12 string. No issues at all and it stays in tune now. Just take your time on the installation

Es la segunda vez que pido este artículo con este vendedor, super recomendado, artículo ideal para guitarras acústicas de caja grande como 12 cuerdas o folk. El último voy a instalarlo en un requinto colombiano, espero todo salga bien.

Surprised to find this isn’t a copy but a genuine factory part. Looking forward to installing this. Appears easy for the mechanically inclined guy who has tools and either a kitchen table or a workbench. Only thing I don’t like was the description of the part is misleading. The description of this item (currently) is “ JLD Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins (#AN3694).” Well, the JLD Bridge Doctor uses brass pins, but the JLD Bridge System (System and Doctor are terms used in the enclosed directions, although colloquially both seem to be referred to as “Bridge Doctor”) utilizes a drilled hole in the bridge (not “bridge pins.” The part number, however is correct (3694). Don’t expect to receive the brass pin mount Bridge Doctor (part # 3695), despite the misleading title of this item on Amazon. You will get JLD part # 3694. Since that’s what I wanted I’m happy. Maybe the appropriate person will remove the “bridge pins” wording from the title so people like me aren’t confused at the discrepancy in terminology.