YDK Sewing Machine Universal Foot Control Pedal - Will Fit Brother, Singer, Janome, Toyota & More Sewing Machines

This was a replacement for a pedal on an old (1970s) sewing machine. I am fairly sure that the actual problem I had was only the capacitor in the old pedal as the machine was running on at full speed - however it just seemed as good an option to replace the entire pedal unit (I may swap the capacitor in the old one at another time, just didn't have time to be hunting around for individual components and the original pedal was also a bit tatty and held together with tape!). These are reasonably well made pedals and you will find lots of information on here and other places on the net about wiring them etc, but I just wanted to say that for the price and ease of just buying a new pedal this worked a treat for me. These work on the "switched" live wire and see the review on here with the pics that tell you how to do it...I followed that one and it was all fine (although I have a fair bit of experience with this type of stuff anyway). I brought mine from Couling Sewing Machines and their service was absolutely excellent as I ordered over the bank holiday weekend and it still came within two days - way quicker than the listing! Thanks Couling! Totally recommend this to anyone who needs a generic foot switch for their machine! Good luck :-)

This is a nice sized and robustly made pedal. The plastic is hard and similar to bakelite. The shell is around 3mm thick. This was a major consideration for me as a foot pedal takes some punishment. Mine arrived with all the parts present -well packaged and with the bottom plate detached. This is a breeze to fit. No worries, simple and logical. Three pins sewing machine leads have two positve pins and one negative, in many cases the centre one. One positive is permanent feed for the light - if it came on with the pedal wouldn't that be fun!!! The other pin comes from the pedal, or to be more accurate it is a 'switch lead' ( I'm a qualified electrician). The pedal is a single wire - single pole switch, the same method as used on most domestic lighting. On the photo, with no lead attached, on either side of the green capacitor the outside two gold tabs are the terminals for the two wires of your switch lead - the cable from the old pedal. Some may require desoldering from your dead switch and moving across, but many already have spade connectors in place and just require swapping. The grey box is from a Brother x5 and shows the simple set up. Because it is a switch lead and not a true pos and neg supply it should not matter which way around - it is just closing the circuit. On the final photo you can see where I've cut back the plastic cable cover where it enters the pedal - its only for aesthetics/neatness - but the leads now swapped over are clearly in place. After that just reroute the cable and affix the base plate - Job done. It looks like it belongs to the machine. For those who need guidance remember not to work on this item when still plugged in. Don't laugh I saw somebody do just that! Long nosed pliers would be useful for the connectors and a Phillips 2 to close the case and the cable clamp.

Bought to replace a failed “Sew-tric” foot pedal on a 1962 Brother sewing machine. Had previously ordered a cheaper alternative from Amazon but that one did not include some necessary screws and the cord-grip, so was returned. Photos and comments from previous reviews for this item were invaluable in knowing where the wires were to be connected, but I still made a mess of it. The package includes a pair of clips to attach to the end of the wires, which should then slide on to the corresponding spades in the foot pedal. However, in soldering the wires to the clips, some of the solder ran into the clips and obstructed the channels such that they would no longer slide onto the spades in the foot pedal – perhaps I should have just “crimped” the clips onto the wires instead of soldering, but too late now. Repeated attempts to force the clips on kept bending the spades, which were then in danger of breaking off which would have been game over. To solve this, I cut off the clips, stripped back the wires, hooked them through the holes in the spades and soldered them directly in place. After assembling the controller, plugging everything in and pushing down the pedal, the sewing machine eased back into life, at which I couldn’t help but do a little dance of joy and hug my mother. A couple of months later and the new pedal is still going strong. It is very pleasing that a complex, well-engineered sewing machine, used regularly for over sixty years without other issue, has been given a new lease of life by such a reasonably priced replacement controller. Recommended, as long as you have at least some idea of what you're doing.

Bought to replace the broken casing on a Toshiba sewing machine pedal controller, the unit is a good replacement and contains all the electrical parts required. There are a few issues to consider though. Firstly, the original controller used screws to fix the wires to the brass terminals inside, so the wires have eyelets for terminations. This controller has solder tags so can't be connected easily using just a screwdriver. I have the ability to solder the connections, but looking for an alternative solution, I noticed a secondary issue. The brass contacts for the cables on my broken unit are nice and thick and strong. The ones in the new unit are thinner and not such good quality. I therefore decided the best option was to remove the brass contacts from the old unit and put them in the new unit. This wasn't too difficult but you need to take care not to loose any of the little carbon plates inside the control unit. This then allowed the cables to be screwed to the terminals. Once put back together, the pedals works very well. I give 4 stars due to the reduced quality and extra work required.

Meine über 40 Jahre alte Husqvarna Nähmaschine hat sich sehr über dieses Ersatzteil gefreut und kann nun hoffentlich viele weitere Jahre ihren Dienst tun.

Perfecto para Refrey 427 Transforma, el montaje no es difícil. En mi caso no tuve que pelar cables ya que coincidía con los del pedal anterior. Ahora puedo controlar la velocidad de costura de la máquina.

Parfait cet article correspond exactement à ce que j'attendais. J'ai pus changer facilement la pédale de ma machine TYOTA, la voilà repartie pour de nombreuses années

Ik heb twee elektronische pedalen met snoer geprobeerd voor mijn Elna. Allebei waren ze van licht plastic, hadden ze een slecht passende stekker en hielden ze er snel mee op. Dit pedaal is zwaarder van kwaliteit en het originele snoer doet het gelukkig nog goed, want de losse snoeren met de juiste stekker passen ook slecht. Het is best makkelijk om het snoer te bevestigen. Een smal platbektangetje is handig voor de metalen lipjes.

Acquistato per sostituire il pedale di una Pfaff ormai usurato da uso e tempo. La confezione arriva con il pedale ed una bustina contenente tutto il materiale necessario al montaggio: - tubicino per protezione del cavo pedale - tubicini telati isolanti e faston da inserire sui due fili da collegare al resistore variabile interno al pedale (neutro blu e fase marrone) - ferma cavo - set di viti per fermare il fermacavo ed il coperchio Rispetto al pedale precedente, questo non include la piastra da posizionare sopra al condensatore, ma non costituisce pericolo per la sicurezza. Il montaggio è molto semplice ed adatto anche a principianti: 1. inserire il tubicino di protezione cavo sul cavo in ingresso al pedale 2. spellare i cavi di fase e neutro e crimparvi i faston (vedi info sotto) 3. inserire sui due cavi i tubicini isolanti (il più corto sul neutro, di colore blu ed il più lungo sulla fase) 4. innestare i faston sui terminali del resistore (filo blu, più corto, nel reoforo più vicino al foro di ingresso del cavo, filo marrone, più lungo, nel reoforo più lontano dall'ingresso del cavo, vedi prima e seconda foto) 5. incastrare il tubicino proteggi cavo nel suo alloggiamento. 6. fermare con due delle viti in dotazione il ferma cavo (attenzione al fatto che il fermacavo ha un verso di inserimento, se lo inserite al contrario oltre a non fare correttamente il suo lavoro, non vi consentirà di chiudere il coperchio, vedi terza foto per dettagli) 7. posizionare il coperchio e stringere le tre viti di chiusura. Nota sul punto 2. Io consiglio di sostituire i faston preesistenti con quelli presenti nella confezione, ma se quelli preesistenti non sono danneggiati, non si ha dimistichezza con il collegamento dei cavi o non si possiede la crimpatrice, è possibile evitare di sostituirli. L'importante è accertarsi che i faston non siano allentati (siano cioè stabili sui reofori) e che non vi siano filetti del cavo che fuoriescono dai faston.