YDK Sewing Machine Universal Foot Control Pedal - Will Fit Brother, Singer, Janome, Toyota & More Sewing Machines

This was a replacement for a pedal on an old (1970s) sewing machine. I am fairly sure that the actual problem I had was only the capacitor in the old pedal as the machine was running on at full speed - however it just seemed as good an option to replace the entire pedal unit (I may swap the capacitor in the old one at another time, just didn't have time to be hunting around for individual components and the original pedal was also a bit tatty and held together with tape!). These are reasonably well made pedals and you will find lots of information on here and other places on the net about wiring them etc, but I just wanted to say that for the price and ease of just buying a new pedal this worked a treat for me. These work on the "switched" live wire and see the review on here with the pics that tell you how to do it...I followed that one and it was all fine (although I have a fair bit of experience with this type of stuff anyway). I brought mine from Couling Sewing Machines and their service was absolutely excellent as I ordered over the bank holiday weekend and it still came within two days - way quicker than the listing! Thanks Couling! Totally recommend this to anyone who needs a generic foot switch for their machine! Good luck :-)

We have an E&R Classic Sub 22 machine which isn't used much. It was needed recently but there the pedal had lost its speed control and would only act as off or full speed. Ordered this to try get some control back. What a great kit. It is designed to replace your existing pedal but using the existing cable, The kit comes with the pedal and bottom plate, 5 screws (3 for the plate and 2 for the cable anchor), the plastic cable anchor, 3 different insulating sleeves and two crimp/solder on spade terminals. We popped the base off the existing pedal by levering near its pivot point (see photo), The existing cable was attached to the board by two spade terminals and the cable entry secured by a metal plate. The plate lifted up with pliers and we gently wiggled the spade terminals from the base (photo shows pedal after removing the cable with terminals at the bottom and cable securing plate lying on the right). The existing spade terminals easily slid onto the new pedal without the need to use the new spade connectors. A bit of whittling down of the plastic block securing the old cable had it fitting into the new pedal recess and could then secure it with the new anchor plate (see photo). Three screws to secure the base and it was done in less than 10 minutes. A quick test and the speed control was restored The unit seems well built with a clever mechanism to vary the speed or fully pressed to connect the power straight through. The shape of the pedal is much better than the original cheese wedge shape and is very comfortable to put your foot on. Definitely a comprehensive kit which would be usable even if the existing pedal hadn't had spade connectors. Definite improvemend in quality on the existing pedal and has restored the speed control to our machine, the lack of which was making it almost unusable. Definitely recommended if your pedal has given up or is just acting as an on/off switch.

Bought this as a replacement pedal for a very old Singer. Relatively easy to fit - not much harder than wiring a plug. You do need to crimp the tab connectors, but this can be done with a pair of pliers if you don't have a crimping tool. The pedal itself is very solidly constructed with a thick plastic body. It functions better than the old pedal - finer control and doesn't rush away when starting up.

Came with all the bits needed to attach your existing sewing machine cable, very quick & easy to switch over (our old sewing machine pedal had exactly the same type of connectors). Seems to work fine. The only criticism I have is that when you first press down the pedal it doesn't seem to have a gradual take up - it hums louder and then suddenly starts running at full speed. Once it's running, you can slow it down and speed it up. So not ideal, but good enough for the money.

This is a nice sized and robustly made pedal. The plastic is hard and similar to bakelite. The shell is around 3mm thick. This was a major consideration for me as a foot pedal takes some punishment. Mine arrived with all the parts present -well packaged and with the bottom plate detached. This is a breeze to fit. No worries, simple and logical. Three pins sewing machine leads have two positve pins and one negative, in many cases the centre one. One positive is permanent feed for the light - if it came on with the pedal wouldn't that be fun!!! The other pin comes from the pedal, or to be more accurate it is a 'switch lead' ( I'm a qualified electrician). The pedal is a single wire - single pole switch, the same method as used on most domestic lighting. On the photo, with no lead attached, on either side of the green capacitor the outside two gold tabs are the terminals for the two wires of your switch lead - the cable from the old pedal. Some may require desoldering from your dead switch and moving across, but many already have spade connectors in place and just require swapping. The grey box is from a Brother x5 and shows the simple set up. Because it is a switch lead and not a true pos and neg supply it should not matter which way around - it is just closing the circuit. On the final photo you can see where I've cut back the plastic cable cover where it enters the pedal - its only for aesthetics/neatness - but the leads now swapped over are clearly in place. After that just reroute the cable and affix the base plate - Job done. It looks like it belongs to the machine. For those who need guidance remember not to work on this item when still plugged in. Don't laugh I saw somebody do just that! Long nosed pliers would be useful for the connectors and a Phillips 2 to close the case and the cable clamp.

Meine über 40 Jahre alte Husqvarna Nähmaschine hat sich sehr über dieses Ersatzteil gefreut und kann nun hoffentlich viele weitere Jahre ihren Dienst tun.

Perfecto para Refrey 427 Transforma, el montaje no es difícil. En mi caso no tuve que pelar cables ya que coincidía con los del pedal anterior. Ahora puedo controlar la velocidad de costura de la máquina.

Parfait cet article correspond exactement à ce que j'attendais. J'ai pus changer facilement la pédale de ma machine TYOTA, la voilà repartie pour de nombreuses années

Ik heb twee elektronische pedalen met snoer geprobeerd voor mijn Elna. Allebei waren ze van licht plastic, hadden ze een slecht passende stekker en hielden ze er snel mee op. Dit pedaal is zwaarder van kwaliteit en het originele snoer doet het gelukkig nog goed, want de losse snoeren met de juiste stekker passen ook slecht. Het is best makkelijk om het snoer te bevestigen. Een smal platbektangetje is handig voor de metalen lipjes.

Acquistato per sostituire il pedale di una Pfaff ormai usurato da uso e tempo. La confezione arriva con il pedale ed una bustina contenente tutto il materiale necessario al montaggio: - tubicino per protezione del cavo pedale - tubicini telati isolanti e faston da inserire sui due fili da collegare al resistore variabile interno al pedale (neutro blu e fase marrone) - ferma cavo - set di viti per fermare il fermacavo ed il coperchio Rispetto al pedale precedente, questo non include la piastra da posizionare sopra al condensatore, ma non costituisce pericolo per la sicurezza. Il montaggio è molto semplice ed adatto anche a principianti: 1. inserire il tubicino di protezione cavo sul cavo in ingresso al pedale 2. spellare i cavi di fase e neutro e crimparvi i faston (vedi info sotto) 3. inserire sui due cavi i tubicini isolanti (il più corto sul neutro, di colore blu ed il più lungo sulla fase) 4. innestare i faston sui terminali del resistore (filo blu, più corto, nel reoforo più vicino al foro di ingresso del cavo, filo marrone, più lungo, nel reoforo più lontano dall'ingresso del cavo, vedi prima e seconda foto) 5. incastrare il tubicino proteggi cavo nel suo alloggiamento. 6. fermare con due delle viti in dotazione il ferma cavo (attenzione al fatto che il fermacavo ha un verso di inserimento, se lo inserite al contrario oltre a non fare correttamente il suo lavoro, non vi consentirà di chiudere il coperchio, vedi terza foto per dettagli) 7. posizionare il coperchio e stringere le tre viti di chiusura. Nota sul punto 2. Io consiglio di sostituire i faston preesistenti con quelli presenti nella confezione, ma se quelli preesistenti non sono danneggiati, non si ha dimistichezza con il collegamento dei cavi o non si possiede la crimpatrice, è possibile evitare di sostituirli. L'importante è accertarsi che i faston non siano allentati (siano cioè stabili sui reofori) e che non vi siano filetti del cavo che fuoriescono dai faston.