R1100M-P Monoblock Car Amplifier - 1100 High Output, 2-8 Ohm Stable, Low/High Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, MOSFET Power Supply

Components installed: - One Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 10-inch shallow loaded enclosure - Kenwood KDC-BT555U receiver/head - Boss R1100M monoblock amp - Sirius/XM SXV-200v1 tuner - Metra single DIN faceplate kit - Metra wiring harness adapter I wanted to use a local business for this installation, but they quoted me $750 to install $250 worth of components. So I decided to order the stuff from Amazon and do it myself. I got a much better head, a better amp, the Sirius/XM tuner (not included in the quote from the local vendor) and the same subwoofer/enclosure for less than $350. It took me parts of three days to do the install, but it was fun, I learned a lot, and I do quality work (even if I do say so myself). The bottom line is, the system sounds awesome. I had already upgraded the stock Infinity speakers in the front and rear doors with a set of Boston Acoustic speakers. I did this a few years ago when the stock speakers got wet or rotted and started buzzing. This gave me a tinny sound that had very little low end. That and the fact that I could not use my iPhone with this system finally prompted me to upgrade. I had never installed an amp before and didn't have the first idea what would be required. Luckily a lot of info is available on the Internet that makes this stuff doable. The local installer had told me that this size subwoofer enclosure would fit behind the smaller driver-side rear seat in my Dakota Quad Cab, but that turned out to be incorrect. The alternative is to spend an additional $200-$300 to purchase a molded enclosure, plus the cost of the actual subwoofer. So I decided to locate the enclosure on the rear floorboard, snugged up against the middle console, facing backwards. I am still in the process of trying to decide how to anchor it there--it's dangerous to have something that heavy not properly anchored down, as it could become the source of severe head trauma in a crash. I am thinking I'll probably use some combination of velcro and home-made brackets. The one thing I have noticed is that, if it is placed directly against the back of the console, the console will not lift up and out of the way in the front seat. This is a problem for me, because that's usually where I place my Glock when I'm transporting it but want to keep it out of view.. But, from a rear-seat occupant perspective, this configuration allows two people to still ride comfortably in the back, though it does extend slightly into each occupant's knee space. It pretty much makes the middle seat unusable though, so if you need that much passenger room, you will need to spring for the molded enclosures that fits under that seat. Luckily I rarely have passengers riding in the back. The hardest thing about the install was running the 8-guage power supply from the battery through the firewall into the pax compartment. Using Internet research, I located the wiring harness grommet on the driver's side, and was able to use a coathanger to get the wire through. I pushed the coathanger through and then electrical-taped the 8-guage power supply wire to the other end of the coathanger. First time it came loose, but second attempt worked like a charm. The wiring harness kit was pretty simple. The order is Kenwood wiring harness-->adapter kit from Amazon-->factory connections in my truck. The wiring is almost idiot-proof as it is pretty much color-to-color. The only discretion involved my truck's OEM amplifier--I needed to connect its control wire and the new amp's control wire to the single P-CONT wire from the new harness. If you understand that all these wires do is turn on the amps when the radio is powered up and turn them off again when the head unit is off, it's a no-brainer to figure out you just need to wire both control wires to this same wire in the harness. To test the connections, I twisted all the wires together and electrical-taped them. Once I confirmed everything was working, I took the harnesses back into my house and soldered them and used rubber heat shrink around the soldered connections. I prefer that to the cheap crimp connectors included in the 1100 amp wiring kit I purchased at Walmart. The one thing that nearly threw me off was the amp's "Protection" light that illuminated after I cleaned everything up and put the trim back on the interior of my truck. Luckily, I was able to search the Amazon user comments and learned that an improperly grounded amp is one of the causes. Sure enough, I removed the piece of trim under which I had connected the 8-guage ground wire to the body of the truck with a screw and saw that I had jarred loose the ground wire when I snapped that piece of trim back in. My advice is, if you get a "Protection" light on this amp, check the ground wire connection before you do anything else. I am amazed at the quality of the sound. The bass is amazing and it's almost like having a new truck. I highly recommend these components.

This works great not easy for me to install but i got someone else to to put in but works awesome

I purchased this amp with a gift card to power 2 Kicker CompR 10" 2 Ohm dual voice coil woofers in a sealed box running at a total of 2 Ohms. I listen to alot of R&B, techno, and deep heavy bass music in a 2017 Mazda 3. I initially purchased this amp as a very cheap (basically free from a christmas giftcard) beginner amp with the intention to purchase a new amp once this one failed..... WELL, 2 years later and it is still going strong as ever!! It works and provides what it is supposed to do, MORE BASS! ****Nit picks about the amp**** -It is no where near 1100 watts! Alot of reviews show this amp really caps at 200 watts. So, at most 100 Watts per 10" CompR woofer in my set up. It has been great and plenty loud enough for just some extra bass support. -I found I kept driving the gain a little higher trying to get more output but this amp just could not dish it out with out distorting. I only say that to be mindful that that this amp will not be rattling the neighbors windows or really even bothering the other cars next to you. I will be audible outside the vehicle but nothing really aggressively obnoxious. -It is a class A/B amplifier so it does draw more power when turned full set volume , but only enough to make my headlights dip a small amount very quickly. So, If you are wanting just some extra low end support with out spending to much! I would 100% recommend this! I only rate it 4 stars because of the false claim of 1100 watts from BOSS, not really any issue with the seller or product.

Great sound , and good price

Long story short, hubby is using this as an amp for a subwoofer in our 5.1 home theater system, works as expected. Our setup: Onkyo TX-SR304 (65W per channel) Center channel: RCA 40-5038 200W Center Channel Speaker Dual 5" Drivers Monopole Linaeum Tweeter Mains: Pioneer S-HF21-LR (100W each) Surrounds: Realistic Minimus-7W 40-2039B Walnut grain (40W each) Sub: BSR DR-SW15x2 passive dual coil (200W) Sub Amp (this item): Boss R1100M Riot Monoblock amp Sub Amp power supply: FSP 300-60BN (+12v @ 11A max) As you can see, our HT system is a piecemeal of older components so an auto amp powering the sub is no stranger to our living room. Once the sub was wired up for 4-ohm dual-L/R bridged to 8-ohm it keeps the volume levels consistent via the LFE pre-out (which needed a single-to-dual RCA adapter to connect to the low-level input on the BOSS amp) it is a welcome addition to our system. Pros: Good sound at lower power, low price (easily 1/3 the cost of typical dedicated sub pre-amp/amplifiers for HT use). Cons: The remote unit does not seem to control the volume level as expected, lots of elbow grease needed to convert this to HT use (not really a con, very fun to be honest :) Lucked out with the FSP PSU, is able to run on +12v load alone without needing 5v or 3.3v pull-up (sometimes needed for older PC switching power supplies) and the +12v rail should be able to handle the power to match the Onkyo output without any problems (and can be replaced w/ a seasonic SS unit quite easily). All the +12v yellow wires were snipped from the molex connectors (and one from the 20-pin ATX, 5x18AWG total for +12v) were bundled to a yellow crimp connector mated to 2x16AWG zip cord for power to the amp, and same for the ground. The cheap sony speakers in the pic were just for testing the BSRs crossover, they are terrible but work :) Once it was all set up we fired up the youtube app on our Visio smart TV and played some random R&B compilation, the first track was Bruno's 24K Magic - WOW what a difference that sub makes, the 15" rocks the entire wall unit when turned up, had to turn it down before the pictures started falling of the shelf. Needless to say, we are extremely satisfied with our purchase.

Works great

Mono no me gusta

Aunque yo lo instale bastante rústico, la potencia y eficiencia del amplificador es buena, ya lleva 3 meses trabajando casi todos los días (alimentando un Kicker10” Cwcd104 Doble Bobina 500w y está en óptimas condiciones aunque lo traigo todo cochino porque lo instale en mi camioneta de trabajo 👍

Ottima qualità

Bon rapport qualité prix

Por el precio que pagas es excelente calidad de construcción y su circuitería de las más sólidas del mercado, solo que las potencias que dice no son las correctas, para los 4ohm que es el modo que uso mi sub da aprox 200W reales rms, pero por el precio es un excelente amplificador, fácil de instalación y manejo, tiene todo lo necesario para empezar como el filtro de frec bajas, control de ganancia, bass boost por si quieres acentuar alguna frecuencia, y también puede ser de rango completo para usar en bocinas, ademas de incluir el kit que al no ser de alta potencia no ocupas comprar mas, excelente lo recomiendo