CRC K&W 401016 Block Seal Permanent Metallic Block & Radiator Se

This worked great for a boiler repair. Usually runs at about 10 to 15 psi.

I used the this product twice and finally it worked. First time, I followed the instructions blindly without paying attention to capacity. I mixed it with 3 quarts of water. But I was only able to put half the solution to the radiator because my car has small capacity. So after doing all the things, My cars is still loosing coolant. After thinking it over, I decided to give a 2nd try. This time I mixed it with less water so I managed to put the whole can of k &w into cooling system. After going through all the procedures according to the video, it finally worked. Now I hope it will last a long time.

These do work! With certain assumption, depends on the leak or crack in your head gasket. I followed the directions from TrustMyMechanic . com in the you tube channel. [...] . His directions made more sense to me. You really have to drain your existing coolant out, flush it a couple of times, then fill it with tap water and then poor this bottle into the radiator cap opening. Then just drive your car for at least 500 miles. It took me about a week of driving to work and back to hit 500 miles. I check my radiator every day to top it off with water before going to work and noticed it stop leaking after about 75 miles on the odometer. So what does that mean...you really have to drive it around, get the engine hot enough and let the water/block seal get into the seams of the crack/leak. The directions on the bottle may work, but I think by doing it this way, I think it works a lot better. Like I said, it stopped leaking at around 75 miles into the 500 miles. I guess if you drive it over 500 miles and it is still leaking, then I think the crack/leak is way to big for this product to work. Or it could be leaking outside of the cylinder head. So after the 500 miles, verify that it stopped leaking by openning up your radiator cap and looking into your radiator. The top of the radiator should still be wet, there should still be water floating around at the top. If you can see the radiator fins and it's bone dry, then you still have a leak. If you are good, drain the tap water/block sealer, then flush it a couple of times. Then fill it up with coolant for your car. I use this product on a 2005 Toyota Tacoma Pre-Runner. Symptom of a crack/leak in your head gasket: Got a P0300 (random misfire), P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire), P0306 (cylinder 6 misfire). For this truck, when you drive it around town, you can hear water swooshing back and forth inside the engine bay. This is because when there is a leak in the gasket, the pressure and gases from the cylinder head pushes back into the coolant chambers and creates bubbles/air pockets thus there is open space in your coolant block that allows the coolant to move around. So if you hear that, it's an indication that you got coolant issues. Also, you will be losing coolant everyday or two when you check your radiator. Hope that helps...

This item arrived on time and was just what I needed to seal my leaking rad.

Product showed up unusable. Was solid in the can. Wasn't frozen, was just old and wasn't able to try and mix it around cause it was solid. Both cans I ordered