Leak Saver Direct Inject Ultimate 6-Pack | 3-in-1 AC Refrigerant Leak Sealer | with UV Dye & Moisture Remover | for Most HVAC Systems Up to 5 Tons - Professional AC Leak Sealer - AC Stop Leak

This product saved my 2 heat pump units. I was looking at a 25k replacement cost and this product was able to stop both leaks I had and my unit has been running. Great the last 6 months.

Works as advertised. Not sure if it will require another treatment down the road. That’s why I bought the pack.

I think I did over 10 hours of pure, uninterrupted research to find out whether this would clog and destroy my AC system or magically repair it. Here's what I found. For context, I have a newer type of heat pump that uses R-410a (Bosch BOVA36HDN1M120G) paired with an old high-velocity duct system (Unico MC3642HX) *Will this destroy my AC system? What various sources report is that organosilane, polymer-free leak sealants (like this one) are generally safe for new model heat pumps and will not "slug" or otherwise destroy sensitive components in modern machines. Supposedly, this is because they will only react and harden when exposed to the pressure and oxygen variations associated with getting outside of the closed refrigerant loop of your system (i.e., when exposed to an actual hole). Leak sealants (generally) apparently got a very bad rap in the 2000s because they used to be polymer-based which, when introduced into systems like mine, immediately caused problems with sensitive (apparently "microscopic") valves and whatnot that modern heat pumps use to regulate the flow of refrigerant. They can also apparently cause problems when other contaminants like air or water have already entered the system, causing the leak sealant to trigger earlier within the refrigerant line instead of at the leak site, resulting in issues when the refrigerant flow constricts. I agonized about what to do because I had a leak in my system that took 2 years to allow enough refrigerant to escape to make my heat pump lock out (what most would describe as a micro leak). For reference, in my area (a HCOL suburb), multiple HVAC companies said that their go-to in my situation would be to pull all the refrigerant out, separate my system into indoor coil, piping and outdoor unit, and then do a nitrogen test to find the leak. It apparently would take about half a day to do this process, and I was quoted about $200/hr of labor during high-season (December). And that was to find the leak only. Additional costs would then be tacked on for repair which, by the way, if you have an R-410a system like mine, may not be viable if the leak is in your coil because R-410a is being phased out. And even more costs would come into play if the leak wasn't somewhere easily accessible, like inside walls or ceilings. There are some products that apparently can electronically detect leaks, but it was a chore to get HVAC techs (from multiple companies) to even mention this option. I imagine there's some self-interest at play there, but those leak detectors are also available online if you are inclined to try them. Putting all that together, I asked one of the HVAC workers visiting me to give his real thoughts on the sealant. Off the record, he said the official line is that it's not recommended (injecting anything into your refrigerant line will immediately void any warranties you might have on your unit), but that the end result would either a fix or nothing. He said he would advise just refilling periodically, and getting a can of R-410a somewhere (since these are being phased out, with the expectation that prices go up over time, like they did for R-22). I decided to trust in internet research and go for it, and had the tech add in the sealant for me (I saw some videos online claiming that this process was straightforward, but also multiple videos where people added this into the wrong pressure line, resulting in it exploding in their hands, or adding it with too much or too little air). I then ran the system in cold mode for 3 hours, and then ran it at a moderate heating mode constantly since then. The system is still working fine. I don't know if the leak sealant has worked or not, but the system itself has been fine for about a month now. If you decide to take the risk that I did, I suggest you check the SDS sheet for the product you choose. The one for this one is available here (https://www.leaksavers.com/apps/help-center) under the "Leak Saver Installation Help" category, and make sure you are also getting a "polymer-free" organosilane leak sealant as opposed to one of the older polymer-based sealants still floating around (especially at big box stores). Otherwise, good luck. Ultimately, I think this is one of those things that you just have to take a leap of faith on, because all reputable HVAC companies will give you the same party line about this not being an approved product, and all technicians will generally repeat that mantra. The only thing I can say is that it did not immediately kill my system (parts mentioned above).

I think it worked on my $2000+ dollar refrigerator. After a week the freezer still holds temp at 8 degrees and fridge at 40 degrees F. It was a 134a refrigerant system. It seemed to be a very straightforward install system but there is a catch. I setup as recommended using the refrigerant to force the stop leak into the system. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to inject into the fridge. After trying at least ten times to get tech support on the phone I decided to investigate the issue myself. The tube has a Schrader valve on both ends??? (Schrader valve is like the valve on your car tires to let air in or out) I guess it is to hold the stuff in the tube. After looking further, I found there is a spring loaded movement in the fridge end of the application tube that is supposed to actuate a bypass for the Schrader valve. It didn't work on my piercing valve. So I removed the Schrader and carefully keeping the open end up so it wouldn't pour out, attached it to the piercing valve and "Voila" it worked instantly. I did have to recharge it after 2 days, but I felt that the initial charge I put in was weak in the first place. Seems to be working well now. Note: I did hear back in an email from tech support with good information that confirmed my assumptions about the Schrader valve. But my time is important to me, and if the directions just had a simple set of directions about what to do if it won't go into the piercing valve it would have saved me 4 hours of frustration and loss of time, for a task that should have taken no more than 15 minutes. Their website says nothing about this in the tech support page either and I believe it is likely a common issue. OVERALL: Good product; good price; poor instructions, poor website for tech support info.

Wanted to write this review to hopefully help others. My small 2 ton heat pump sprung a leak to the tune of about 2lbs of R410 per week. I dumped this into the system thinking what the hell ill probably buy a whole new unit if I cant find the leak or this doesnt work, I had zero confidence this product would seal the leak... Well I dumped in the dye and on the 2nd/3rd days I could not detect it anywhere, on the 4th day I found dye pooled up in the drain pan, could not find the exact spot but that meant it was at least isolated to the A coil. A few more days go by and my unit freezes up again, I check the charge and its super low. So being that its hot outside and I have a jug of 410 I recharge the system, another week goes by and the coil freezes again. I expected this, I didnt think this stuff would seal the system... so it being hot as hell outside I recharge the system again and order an A coil. ...well the A coil came in and its been about a month now and no issues with the unit... im sorta shocked. This sealer has seemed to finally do its job, and it seems to be doing it well. Im going to let it go until the unit needs to be charged again, IF it needs to be charged again. The moral of my story is that this stuff is worth a shot, it might fix the problem. Id give it a few weeks and dont be dismayed if you need to add a little more refrigerant.

UPDATE: this week the fridge stopped working again, loss of freon. So this product did not fix the very slow leak as I was hoping it would, so have to give it one star now. For the price, this is not a good value. The expensive brass fittings on each end are not reusable, and obviously jack the price up. The leak I’m trying to fix is in a fridge, and is very slow (2 to 3 months), and I’d expect this product would work, yet it doesn’t. And have not been able to find the actual leak using a black light to reveal the UV dye… frustrating!! Original, initial review: I just put this in today for my Samsung side by side. I did get the leakstop into the fridge today, I’ll come back in a few weeks to report on efficacy. 1) package came with no instructions whatsoever… just the stop leak tube in a sealed package, in a branded slightly larger package… I went online for the instructions. 2) Installing was challenging. There’s a valve at both ends, and neither activated. The input from the manifold has Schrader valve, but my hose/gauge does not have the fitting to activate it. 3) The valve on the other end would not activate when screwed into a bullet piercing valve. I had to unscrew the first Schrader valve completely, connecting the gauge, the contents ended up in the hose, so the hose was the intermediate step… I ended up not using the supplied fancy brass fittings on a mini hose, though not intentionally, simply the valves were not working for me. 4) at $46 I wonder how much was due to the nice knurled brass fittings? Is the compound available to refill the tube? Is there a recycling program? 5) the fluid tube is very stiff… this became a problem as I had installed the bullet valve pointing straight up last week when I was doing the initial refill with r134a…. So there was not enough clearance between valve and chassis, making attaching challenging due to the stiffness… Wondering what I can do with these nice fittings, LOL…

My home's A/C had a leak that I eventually found in the evaporator. Over a two day period the system would lose about 4 pounds of freon. I added the leak saver then recharged the system. This was 2 weeks ago and the leak appears to be sealed. I have an electronic freon detector that originally detected the leak location. After adding leak seal the detector did not detect a leak even on the highest sensitivity setting.

This product was easy to use. I also ordered the hose used to inject the Leak Saver and it was simple to use which made it easy for me. My system has/had a very small leak. It usually takes two summers to need refrigerant. I won’t know until 2028 if the small leak was repaired by Leak Saver. I have faith that it has already worked though because the unit seems to be working so much better. It’s cooler in the house and it’s been very very hot and humid here lately.

This dealer is very easy to use and hook up. You do not need any special tools.

Did the job, been 4 months and the AC is still working great after it was added with the freon. Normally the freon would leak out after just a few weeks. This is at our condo in Punta Cana where it’s 26 to 34 Celsius during our winter months there.

Facile à utiliser

Easy to use , straight forward application

I would suggest that if you’re considering paying this much for a product, you have a more serious issue and need to replace some parts. Did not seal the leak in my vehicle, wound up finding and repairing the leaking part so this was a waste of time and money.