Revolution Electronics Electric Fuel Pump Controller. Primes the pump on key-on and turns the pump off if the engine stops.

I’m running this controller on an air-cooled VW sandrail with an upgraded electronic ignition (Magnaspark II) and a 3 psi pump with an electric fuel solenoid. Out of the box, the unit was staying on steadily, but the instructions and the seller’s quick response pointed me exactly where I needed to go. Because of the high-energy ignition and the solenoid, my system was a bit "noisy" electrically. Following Figure 1 in the manual, I installed a diode across the pump/solenoid (Stripe to Positive, Tail to Ground), and it completely fixed the issue. It now primes for 3 seconds and shuts off perfectly as it should. Very happy with the product—it’s a simple, effective safety feature for any custom build. If you're running a high-output coil or solenoids, just grab the diode as the instructions suggest and you'll be good to go. Five stars for the quick customer support!

I have purchased probably 6 of the Revolution controllers. I restore/collect Corvairs that have a mechanical fuel pump which is best removed and replaced with electric fuel pump.. These controllers provide a solid safety solution for operation of the pump to prevent hydra-lock with continuous pump operation and prevention of continued pump operation in event of an accident. The Revolution controller can be wired to operate in concert with an inertia switch to provide a complete safety solution.

I bought this controller for use on my 1963 Corvair Greenbrier van that I had switched over to an electric fuel pump. The included instructions were clear and made connecting it a pretty simple task. I was able to hook everything up in the engine bay (minus the wires I ran to the pump it self.) With this setup, the system primes it self, and turns the pump off any time the engine isn't running. This is a much better option than the oil pressure / inertia detector / dash toggle switches that folks have used over the years in Corvairs (and other vehicles converted from a mechanical pump). It's a neater solution, and much safer overall. This controller would also be an excellent "solid state" fuel pump relay replacement for fuel injection cars of the 70s and 80s. I give this product my highest recommendation.

I bought this to use as a trigger for my fuel pump relay so that the pump won’t just be on at all times when the key is “ON”. Works as intended. If you plan on using it this way, just make sure you get a relay that has a diode built in. The unit is nice and small so I had zero issue getting it to tuck up into the glove box.

I used this to fix a problem with my ski boat. My 1994 Ski Nautique with a Ford 351 and Pro Tec ignition with TBI is notorious. It was the stepping stone between a Holly 4 barrel and port injection. They are super strong when working right but were problematic. They stopped making them after only one year, 1994 or 95 and stopped making parts. Once the ECU stops functioning you have to go all old school, strip off the ECU, coil, throttle body injectors, and go with a carburetor and distributor, and coil, and a new wiring harness, and new plug wires. My ECU stopped running the fuel pump. Everything else works. I could hot wire the relay to run the pump with the ignition switch on. But coast guard regulations, safety, and common sense require the fuel pump to turn off when the engine isn't running. With this switch I was able to get rid of my fuel pump relay, crimp on spade ends, and push them into the appropriate relay plug terminals, and ground the switch,following the schematic, all connectors provided except the spades. Now it works perfectly. It runs the pump for 3 seconds after turning on ignition, and it picks up the tach signal to turn on the pump while the engine is cranking and running. I was surprised the tach picks up enough signal to run the pump with just the starter cranking the engine over, but it does. Now my boat runs great and I can allow my family members to use it without unnecessary risk, at least until my ECU loses another function. So I saved having to buy $2500 worth of conversion kit to calibrator and distributor and a days work. Plus the old ECU does a nice job controlling the idle although it runs rich. I have power up the wazoo. The only thing is my tach sometimes drifts off. Like I know the idle is around 800 rpm but the tack sometimes reads 1100. I don't know if its the ECU, the tach, or this safety switch but I'm not all that worried about the tach accuracy. It does hold steady when pulling a skier. I find it easier to maintain a steady speed by watching the tach once I can see the rpm needed to hold that particular boat speed, and the tach is still working for that. I don't know that this switch is interned for marine use but the switch itself is sealed and it is under the engine hatch so as far as I'm concerned the safety it provides is the important thing.

I wasted a lot of money and time rigging up an electric fuel pump for my 63 tbird. I went through two pumps and eventually went back to mechanical because of the elec. pump noise. After all that, this product does what it says it will and the support is excellent. Staff emailed me back ON A SUNDAY because I had trouble wiring it through and existing relay - which I eventually just removed.

This is amazing. The instructions are really simple and getting it to work in my 1966 F100 was simple! I did have an issue with something not working on mine which was weird but I messaged the company and he got it sent to him and he sent me out a new one! Really amazing company on top on all of that. Would recommend for your vehicle!

Works as described. Recommend!