A01 Aluminum Mini-ITX HTPC Desktop Computer Chassis (Sliver Aluminum)

This is a very sturdy case, small too. Outside dimensions are 7 7/8 (front to back) by 8 by 3 inches, with the glass top on. Inside dimensions are 7 5/8 by 7 ¾ by 2 ¾ making this case just under 3 liters.Here’s what I put in this case: ASUS ROG Strix Z690-I mini-ITX with Intel i5-12600K ID-COOLING IS-47-XT 47mm Height Low Profile CPU Cooler MEAN WELL EPP-200-12 AC to DC Switching Open Frame Power Supply RGEEK 24pin DC ATX PSU 12V DC Input 250W Pico PSU Mini ITX PC Power CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB DDR5 RAM 96GB (2x48GB) 2TB + 4TB NVME’s Some fans Some LEDsI had three main objectives for the build – decent specs for software development internal power (no external brick) <= 3-liter build.Because of its size, this case is a challenge to build in, but that’s exactly what I was after. I saw other builders that had to include size as a requirement for individual parts, like memory sticks needed to be short for the cooler to fit and again memory size and the pico power supply. I ran into the same but managed to easily rectify any issues.Cooling is virtually impossible with the glass top, even if you put spacers between it and the case. I had a hard time keeping everything under 80C. To solve that I used an 8 X 8 X 1/8-inch piece of acrylic and used a 2-inch hole saw to make a cutout above the CPU fan. I put ¼ inch spacers between it and the case and temperature problem solved – CPU is running 35-45C and the NVME drives hover around 43-46C. Most times at home I do run the PC with the top off, which is pretty cool.The next issue to tackle was fitting the Mean Well EPP-200-12 into the case. Fortunately, in this case you can use spacers for the side panels so after adding 3/8-inch spacers to the left panel (bottom in the pictures) I was good to go with the 200 Watt Mean Well.My skill with cable management is debatable and the case is OK, it neither helps nor hinders. The biggest challenge was the thick USB cables. Looping them & some 4-inch cable ties does the job, plus got to hide a bunch of excess cable length in the loop too, so an added bonus.Next, I added 3 Noctua fans, 2 10MM and one 20MM. The CPU fan blows down, so the top center Noctua pulls from the bottom helping circulate the air. Right-top pulls from the pico power supply which seems to generate some heat and the bottom one blows air over the Mean Well EPP-200-12. It had better specs if fan-cooled so why not?Lastly, I added some LEDs because, why not? The observant reader will note that the ID-COOLING CPU Cooler is not LED. I replaced the stock fan with the Scythe Kaze Flex 92mm Slim RGB Fan for that last little piece of bling.Would I buy this case again? Yes. Without hesitation. It is a sturdy, well built case that is very fun and challenging to build in. Challenging in a good way, trying to fit 4 liters of parts into a 3-liter case.

Simple, small case, good materials, good ventilation. Reasonably priced as well. If you are building a mini-itx pc w/o a GFX card and a pico-atx power supply etc., this will work quite well.

Very sturdy, and small case. It looks nice as a living room HTPC. I ordered the glass version, and it works well with a 2400GE Pro (35W) APU (max temps around 70c) with the Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 cooler. However due to the size, and glass top there are airflow issues. If you are not using a ultra low powered CPU (like a embedded ITX motherboard) do not install a 2.5" SATA drive above the motherboard theres just not enough room for even the Noctua cooler to breathe. In fact I would not recommend any CPU/APU that is above a 35W TDP Variant without modding (at least for the glass version). If you want to use something like a 65W APU like the 5300G/5600G with the glass version buy some black motherboard standoffs to raise the glass up to allow additional air to come in. Also the holes for the DC Plug for the PICO PSU is for a 5.5x2.5mm DC Plug max. I have a HD Plex 200W PICO PSU that uses a 19V Dell adapter but the hole is to small so I had to widen the hole with a drill to get the plug to fit. It was a slight pain in the butt to get it in the case as well due to the heatsink on it so just a heads up for those that want to use a PICO PSU with a heatsink. If your wanting to make a small Ryzen APU ITX build the best motherboard to use with the least hassle would be the ASRock a320TM-ITX, or the X300TM-ITX due to the onboard DC input (no need for a PICO PSU) if you have either board you can also install a 2.5" SATA drive due to the positioning of the APU is not in the same place as other ITX motherboards. I gave this 4 out of 5 stars due to me needing to mod the case for the PSU.

Awesome little HTPC case, looks very sleek, feels solid. Runs warm but not hot (although I will admit that the config is geared for limited need for fan. Only CPU heat sink fan required, runs at 38C. Using pico, a 12V 10A ac/dc adapter works perfectly fine. Simple, straightforward and works like a charm. Plan on buying a couple more for a couple of Linux servers I have built.Only nit: the two side USB connectors crowd the 24pin PSU power connector. Placing them high on front or stacked on the side could help.

This is my second build on this case. I have both the white and black one. I do not recommend the glass panel one , thermals were over 70C! The regular metal one keeps the thermals under 50C, averaging around 40~,non stock cooler. HOWEVER i saw this hack online by using a spacer between the case and the glass it improves thermals A LOT! The two builds are similiar spec, 3400G,16 gigs of 3200, no hardrive and only a boot SSD with a noctua low profile cooler. So that in mind,its a great pc for your significant other or parents, works rock solid.

As others have noted, temps are a bit high, what I did was put some small black nylon spacers in between the glass and case, venting the case in a meaningful way. The stock screws just barely grab with the added spacer, so I will have to pick up some longer screws next time I'm at the hardware store.