OEMTOOLS 25219 Hydraulic Ball Joint Separator, Safe and Powerful Joint Splitter Hydraulic Ball Joint Press Kit Separator Tool for Cars Trucks and SUVs

Replacing all ten control arms on my 986 Boxster, the very last ball joint I needed to pop would not budge with my smaller ~$20-30 separator no matter what I tried. Got this bad boy and it's so hefty I knew it was going to work. It weighs 50% more.I got it positioned well on the ball joint and knuckle. the outer screw hand tight and then cranked the inner ram all the way in -- no dice. Removed it, greased the threads, and cranked the outer screw as far as it would go with an air impact. Then started on the inner screw, and the joint finally popped at about 50% in.Might be the only time I ever use this but it's cheaper than paying a mechanic to come to my house!Bonus - since it's heavier I think it's less likely to shoot across the garage like my other one has a couple of times.

I used this tool to remove the drag link from Pitman Arm, and tie rod end from knuckle when replacing my bent drag link on Jeep JK 2012. It worked like a charm. Those were TIGHT! I used 1/2" Craftsman ratchet. Tightened down easy, never really had to strain cranking the wrench. I Waited a bit after tightening and.........BOOM! Came loose with extreme force. I didn't even have to smack the Pitman Arm or Knuckle. Leave the nut on so it doesn't send the ball joint flying! I held onto the tool loosely to catch it.Be sure to grease the threads of both the large bolt and the smaller one. I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease. The bottom pronged portion goes under the dust boot and against the Pitman arm. You don't have to have the prongs all the way in to the back of the slot. If you can get the end of the top arm completely over the ball joint shaft, that is good enough. ZERO damage to tool, or ball joints, didn't cut the dust/grease boots either. In most cases you can tap the bottom U shaped end all the way in with a plastic deadblow hammer.I had OTC tools suspension/steering kit, but decided to get this hydraulic puller after reading reviews. Man am I glad I did! Worth every cent! Built like a tank, will give life time of service and has lifetime warranty! Can't beat it!NO TROUBLE WITH ROOM TO USE THIS TOOL! MY JEEP is factory, no lift too. I can't say about knuckle yoke/swing arm upper and lower ball joints, since I haven't used it on them yet, but I don't see why it wouldn't work for them just as well. Note, if your ball joints have Allen wrench hex in top of threaded portion, take care to have nut up beyond that, so you don't distort or damage it, or you may have trouble getting the Allen wrench to fit. This thing is a monster, it will "POP" those joints out with extreme prejudice, even if it has to mangle the threaded shaft or the nut a bit! TIP I kept a used buggered up nut that I use the puller on. Same size nut fits all my ball joints on the Jeep JK. That way I don't bugger up a flanged locknut I want to reuse. I used this puller to remove the tie rod as well. This one tool removed all the ball joints on drag link, tie rod ends, pitman arm.Popped the ball joints on the Drag Link at knuckle and Pitman Arm, popped the ball joints on the tie rod ends, no troubles. Works just like the drawing of Jeep maintenance tool, only one heck of a lot easier. Just tighten the big screw till you feel good resistance, then crank the small screw, and the grease will pop that ball joint out with hydraulic action easy-peasy! Just lube the threads good. I didn't need to hit the pitman arm or knuckles with a dead blow hammer. I just cranked with 1/2" ratchet till pretty tight. Waited a few seconds, and BOOM! Off they came. I've got OTC tool kit of pullers, never had to use any of them. This one tool does it all, and does it easier. Best money I ever spent on a suspension tool.I will post some more pictures soon.

This tool made easy work of lower control arm ball joints, popping them out after just a few turns on the set bolt. The tool is extremely sturdy and well built. The only thing that wasn't perfect was the violence with which it blasts the ball joint out of the knuckle as your hand is only a few inches away using a wrench or socket to wind down the set bolt. I learned on the 2nd ball joint to put some distance between me and the tool as it got closer to popping the joint out. It's a loud bang and will freak you out - but I can't say enough how easy this thing is to use and how much time it saves versus banging away at a ball joint with a pickle fork. Great buy and I'd highly recommend.

I'll start by saying I had as bad of seized into the knuckle, impossibly fused by rust and pressure and lord knows, ball joints that as you can get. Whaling on it for 4 days going through 4 pickle forks 3 ball joint spreaders, air hammering sledging you name it to finally get all those f****n things popped. On my car the front lower joints are literally part of the arm so no a balljoint press would not have worked. Any way I say that because take this review with a grain of salt as to it's quality, since if you were replacing yours like your supposed to long before they get that bad this thing would probably work perfectly. But if you are struggling a lot or are in for it with some ooolldd heavily used joints keep this in mind. In my case , it failed to pop the first two no matter how much I put on it, better than most similar model's in this peoce range the hydraulic portion is a great great improvement, you get the main bolt tightened down as absolutely tight as it will go (main bolt is big heavy and we'll suited for the forces involved) and even after that point where you can't go further you now have the hydraulic bolt to screw down and the hydraulic fluid inside presses that narrow tip out even further than you could ever drive just the one main bolt and puts incredible incredible amounts of pressure that should normally pop control arm attached balljoints no problem. After getting those two other ways, I put it on the third, same procedure except files by rage this time I got everything to max and then put a breaker bar with cheater pipe on the little hydraulic guy and said F*** it and gave it everything I had. VICTORY!! Finally this thing under incredible pressure blew that joint right out twanged off and across under the car sliding and all practically exploded. However from putting more length and beef on it than I ever should have, I permanently locked up the small hydraulic pin into the main bolt, even in a bench vise with the same breaker bar is won't budge, I'm pretty sure I Cross threaded it in there or something but anyway all in all it got 1 out of 4 of my suuuuuper super bad joints and when it finally did it never worked again so for the money, if you don't have 10 years and almost 200,000 miles on the balljoints on a car you just got and they're being replaced on schedule this thing would probably work perfectly, if you got an old rusty been from here to the moon and back car tho I'd say you got a 50/50 shot of this working or completely F*****g it up once it does work.