Magigoo MO2016 Pen, 3D Printing, Adhesive, All-in-One

After struggling with a couple of others, this was what I wanted! Easy to apply, holds print base in place. Also releases easily when heated bed cools enough. Reading the instructions/advice is probably worth it. I didn't the 1st time. It worked anyway but now I am getting several prints from one application of this!

This works really well on my printer with a glass bed. One coating lasts for ages, and is easily cleaned off. Parts come off the printer bed easily once it cools down. I have never needed to use the scraper.

I have been using this product for several months now and all in all am pleased. I print in PLA and PETG.At the risk of sounding critical, I would not describe this product as "Magic" (as in Magigoo) as that implies it would work irrespective of anything that I might (or might not) do. It certainly doesn't "just" work and requires some effort to get good results. However, *everything* in 3D printing requires effort (experimentation) and nothing "just" works.The three things that seem to ensure success for me are:1) Print head<->print surface gap. I seem to need a slightly smaller gap than I do with other print surfaces to ensure good adhesion. For example generally printing 0.2mm layers (with a 0.4mm nozzle) I find that a 0.18mm gap works best; printing 0.08mm and a 0.05mm gap works best.2) Print surface cleanliness - I print onto a borosilicate glass sheet. According to the manual you only need a damp cloth to clean off the magigoo residue. It certainly does wash away with water but I found that unless the surface (glass sheet) was very clean then I got adhesion failures. I clean the glass-sheet with soap and water and dry thoroughly before re-applying magigoo.3) Bed temperature - magigoo needs some form of heated bed to activate the <cough> "magic" but how much really varies with the material being printed and even the layer height! I found more variability in adhesion results depending on temperature than with other surfaces (e.g. PEI sheet). For example: printing PETG @ 0.2mm layer height and bed temperate needs to be 85C but printing at 0.08mm layer height and I need to increase bed temperature to 95C; printing Rigid Ink PLA and I can get away with a 40C bed temperature irrespective of layer-height!Basically, you need to experiment to find the best settings for your rig but once you do then it should give reliable and consistent results.The key questions:Would I buy this product again? Absolutely yes.Would I recommend this product to someone else? Yes (bearing in mind the need to experiment).

it definitely helped my bed aheasion issues did not totally resolve it but for those tricky larger models definitely woth giving it a go.

Bit expensiveBut works really well and much better than a regular glue stick

I was skeptical when I ordered this product. "Is it just a big expensive pritt-stick?", I thought. Having used the product, now I'm a believer. I'm using it to print PLA onto a glass surface. The first layer sticks very well, with no smearing or dragging of the first layer. Mission accomplished!However I then discovered the product has a second benefit which I didn't anticipate: once my heated bed cools down the print separates from the bed effortlessly. I can retire the putty knife I used previously to pry prints off the bed! So basically it's all brilliant on that front.The magigoo seems to remain on the glass, it doesn't transfer to the printed part as glue stick sometimes does, I've done about dozen prints without any need to re-coat the bed. Hopefully as long as I store the product properly (in the dark, it seems) it will last me a long time.I've only tried printing PLA so far. I'm going to try experimenting with PETG next.The only downside to the product is that if you have an uneven coating on magigoo a glass bed, which is what I ended up with having used the applicator they supply it in, any ripples or texture in the coating are transferred onto the printed part. If the bottom surface of the part will be on display this leaves an uneven pattern reflective/matt texture on that surface of the part. The best solution I have found so far is to lightly sand the surface with 1000, 1500 and then 2000 grit sandpaper after printing to give an evenly matt texture.Overall I think this stuff is great, not having to worry about adhesion or removing the print from the bed has made printing much more fun and practical. I bought this concerned that it wouldn't prove good value for money -- I'm pleased to report that I was wrong!

Sometimes I just can't get my parts to stay attached to the bed, especially with PETG and ABS. Even with PLA, sometimes it just doesn't happen - especially when the contact area is small. This stuff works a treat, significantly increasing the chance of good first layer adhesion. It lasts for ages because it generally only needs a thin layer to be applied once and one can do lots of prints. Over time it needs reapplying - either straight on top, or wash off previous layer with a damp cloth (water soluble). It won't completely solve ABS/PETG warping issues, but it helps a lot - the bed adhesion can be so strong that the parts themselves break (layer separation) during printing rather than coming off the bed - and that's fixable with a soldering iron.Little tip - first use requires the seal to be broken by pushing the tip down onto a hard surface until it clicks. Also make sure the tip is nicely libricated with the liquid before trying to apply, otherwise you can damage the felt and then scratch your bed.