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W**E
Have good tools before you start and read as many reviews as you can.
I have just finished cutting out all the pieces, but I think I'm missing one, so I ordered 2 more books, one for reference and one for spare parts, just in case. Rather than using an Exacto knife to cut everything out, I used a folding utility knife with a carbide edged DeWalt blade. It stays sharp for a very long time and since I have large hands, is easier for me to use. I first tried scoring the fold lines with the edge of my aluminum ruler, but found it to be to thick. Then I remembered a tool I use for tracing designs onto leather before tooling. It's got a curved rounded end that is perfect for scoring the fold lines on the cutting pad. The other end of the tool is a spoon shape and is perfect for flattening out folds once they've been folded over. I had no problem with tearing using this method. I also found the perfect pad to pin parts to when constructing gears etc. They is called Hephesus Crafts Blocking Mats for Knitting. They are about 12" square and have a 1" grid on them. They are made like jig-saw pieces so they can be connected together to form a larger mat. They are about 5/8" - 3/4" thick and work great to pin things to. I found them at Michael's in their knitting section. Unfortunately, they didn't have any 2mm knitting needle, the smallest they had were 2.25mm. I suppose that would work, but would prefer to get the 2mm. They also had card stock that was about 1.75mm thick so I'm going with that. I think it should be heavy enough. That's about all I CNN say about it for now I'll put more on here when I finish it.
O**E
Super cool
Comes as a book that you cut into pieces. All the pieces you need are in the book. Heavy stock paper. All things you need with this would be glue...I used ALEENE'S ORIGINAL TACKY GLUE 4 fl oz (didn't even use the whole bottle and I tended more towards over gluing than under)...get a BOX OF PAPER CLIPS (these serve as the axels to hold everything in and can help when glues certain pieces I attached 2 pics demonstrating ) make sure they are all the same diameter so then you don't have to worry about a hole being too small or too big blah blah. the normal size paper clips are near in size to a LARGE THREADING NEEDLE which you can use to make your holes. Mine book came in a CARDBOARD BOX if yours does as well keep the box so you can cut a few pieces off. you need a few flattened cardboard pieces not much. You will also need dry sand...they ask for dry sand as your weight im using plastic beads...you just need 10 oz of something to put in the weight tube you see in the product picture.TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! took me 2 MONTHS to complete without rushing and mines not perfect. They give you instructions and diagrams but some KNOW HOW is advised.
P**N
Things you need to know about the working paper clock
I just wanted to share some of experiences while making this clock and hopefully they will be helpful to you.First of all get an extra copy or 2. Printing a copy of each page before hand is useful for reference, just in case you cut out pieces before you mark thenumber of the piece on it and don't know what it is, but an extra copy or 2 allows for spare parts, which you will need in order to make precision pieces, sometimes you will need to make the gears twice, in order to get practice down.Important Items you will need, and get them beforehand so you have them as you move along.glue: I bought a bottle of Tacky Glue. I use it 2 different ways, 1) straight out of the bottle for those instant tack needs. 2) I thin it out in a seperate container for those thin applications where you need to glue back to back or to cardboard or just general gluing. Using it straight from the bottle only if absolutely necessary, thinned is better.Exacto blade kit with lots of good blades and different sizes. The kit I have has about 50 different blade types, different type holders and it also has needle points which are very handy.For the cardboard I used the backer piece of what a pack of construction paper comes in. It is about .5mm thick so I found that for pieces 48 and 89, I needed to glue 3 pieces of this cardboard together to be sure the rubberband will fit well in these locations. After gluing them together I cleaned up the edges bu sanding them, making the pieces consistently round.Straighy edge, a metal one will eventually dull your blades, I used a plastic triangle.Heavy weight, I found this to be the most useful, I have a block of wood and a 12"x6"x3/4" block of steel, very heavy. I noticed the heavier the better forflattening out those back to back glued pieces. Warping was a big issue, hence the need to make some of the gears twice!! Warping was caused by too much glue spread to thick and not moving quick enough to weight it done.A couple of artist brushes, 1 very small, 1 medium.I also found that a self healing cutting mat was indespensible.Axles and bearings: I went to Joannes Fabrics and bought some bead piercing needles, found them by mistake thought they would work well for the smaller gears but they were to thin. However they work great for small holes, precision holes and temporary needs. I then found some alumunum knitting needles in an assortment pack consisting of 5 of each 2.25mm, 2.0mm, 1.75mm and 1.5mm. I used the2.0mm for the main gear and the clock hands. The 1.5mm for the rest of the gears and escapement. For the bearings I found some wooden beads, 2 sizes, however I needed to
M**G
I was very happy with the quick response
I haven't completed this project yet, and I do think it looks a tad complicated, but I'm excited to start it and looking forward to the challenge. I'm anticipating a rewarding final product. The first book I received cut off the images, so I asked for a replacement and had it in 2 days with a well-printed book. I was very happy with the quick response!
G**R
a cutting board and some good quick drying glue
I've purchased several of these over my life time and have never succeeded in finishing the clock. You will need EXTREME patience, a sharp hobby knife, a cutting board and some good quick drying glue. I actually purchased the book this time to see if I could transfer the designs using a CAD to print out on my 3D printer.
R**R
very good book but you do have to read and be ...
very good book but you do have to read and be very accurate when cutting out the parts and putting them together. works well for me. i used a copier to copy the pages of the clock i was making so that i would not have to cut up the book just the copies. i had a very good time working on this and was well worth the money.
G**S
AWESOME
I BOUGHT IT, RCVD IT,HAVE NOT PUT IT TOGETHER YET. STILL SITTING IN MY GARAGE.
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