Massca Plastic Welding Kit with Welder, Rods, Reinforcing Mesh, Hot Iron Stand, and Wire Brush - Plastic Bumper Repair Kit DIY Arts, Crafts & Professional Surface Repair, Portable 80 Watt

I first got the “gun” type. It worked ok but I got cramp from constantly holding the trigger, the handle was very hot, the tip was flimsy and the whole thing failed after one repair.I then got the “rod” type and it works much better. There’s no trigger or handle problems. The tip is much stronger and the plastic welding material melts better and can be manipulated much easier than that supplied with the other kit.I’ve saved hundreds fixing trash cans for rentals. I wish I had got this type first.

Worked well to fix my snowblower belt cover.The heating tips are made from very soft metal.Do not apply pressure until the plastic has started melting.

The iron in this kit is fairly large so it can be held onto easily. It is heftily built and works great for heating up plastics to be welded together. The kit provides a good amount of the most-used plastic and is adequate. It heats up quickly and melts the plastic so that it can be smoothed along with the added plastic to repair a variety of plastic items damaged during use.The main problem in using the kit is that the wedge-shaped tips provided are made from material with too low a melting point and they begin to deform when they get hot. If any pressure is applied to the tip, the nearly molten shaft bends very easily and no amount of care will prevent this - short of not using the tip. To prevent the premature failures, when I purchase a new tip, I add some additional threads to the shaft and install a 1/4-28 nut on it. I then tighten the nut against the end shield on the iron after the tip is fully installed. This will keep the shaft from getting too hot and the pressure placed on the tip is transmitted to the end of the iron.Another thing I tried was to drill out the center of the shaft with a 3/32" drill bit and insert a 3/32" welding rod end into the hole. This keeps the molten end from bending under quite a bit of pressure. The welding rod usually has a little 'blow' left on it which, when forced into the hole in the shaft, will keep it from falling out again. These rods are from used up 3/32" welding rods.I have not tried the extra nut on the new tips yet, but the hollow shaft with welding rod inserted works very well with a 1/4-28 nut holding the two parts together and the shaft installed up to the nut tightly. I was able to complete a job that I was doing while I waited for the new tips to arrive.When the shaft breaks off, the portion of the shaft left in the iron renders it unusable until removed. The easiest way is to drill a 3/32" hole in the end as near centered as possible and use a small extractor to remove the piece. The extractors come in a set of four and the smallest will fit a 3/32" hole which only needs to be drilled 1/4" into the end. If it is easier, a Dremel tool can be used to grind a slot in the tip so that a small flat-blade screw driver can be used to turn the portion of the tip out. The copper material is pretty soft so working with it is easy. And it will not adhere to the iron very much.I have not located a better iron for the money. However, a distinct improvement could be made by adding an on/off switch to the power in and perhaps a thermal control to keep it from overheating. I turn the iron on by plugging it in and then prepare for the work to be done because it takes awhile for the unit to heat up, but then it overheats apparently - the tip is almost molten at the point where it exits the heater barrel. Even when you are very careful with the pressure applied, the tip's shaft will slowly deform and eventually break.

Works well. Motorscooter faring was damaged. This repaired it. Looks ugly but works. Can probably sand it but I don't care.

I needed to repair the tips of the black polypropylene truck bed rail caps on our 2019 F250 after I discovered they'd been badly deformed by an improper installation of a fiberglass bed topper while replacing the leaking weather seals. I attempted to buy two new caps for almost $300, but none were currently available and I needed to get the bed topper reinstalled. The thought hit me that perhaps there was a way to melt new plastic into the crushed areas, and I subsequently discovered this plastic welding kit while researching how to perform this type of repair. I was slightly apprehensive about the durability of the tips given some reviews, but even after multiple practice sessions on scrap items around the garage and performing the actual repairs the first tip is still in like-new condition (I'm thinking that it's possible some users accidentally bent the tip shafts by not giving the plastic rod sufficient time to fully melt and subsequently applied too much force on the tip in an attempt to spread the plastic rod material). The repaired areas aren't perfect, but after developing a nifty way to impart some suitable texturing on the "welded" areas by making a silicone stamp and carefully using a heat gun, from more than 2 feet away you can hardly tell that the tips of the caps had been restored! Anyone who has some experience with soldering, a modicum of technical and/or artistic aptitude, a bit of patience, and a willingness to spend a few minutes watching videos and practicing on common scrap plastic can likely achieve some amazing results with this kit. It came with a replacement tip, rudimentary rod stand, backing screen for filling larger voids, and enough plastic rod to do more repairs than I'll ever live long enough to attempt. I don't know how durable it will actually be, but for anyone who only needs to use it for minor repair projects once in a while, it appears to be a tool that could last quite a few years.

Works good but the tips are week thay bend out of shape and then break off if only replacement tips could be found

great product, stopped a leak on my Hobbie cat kyak , really a super product!!!!

Brought this for a friend very easy to use I recommend