WFCO WF-8955-AD-MBA Main Board Assembly for WF-8900-AD Series Power Center - 55 Amp , Black

My old converter (p/n 8955PEC) failed. I found it under my fridge, under the breakers and fuses. 2018 flagstaff 831 bhds. I noticed something was wrong when my slide would barely pull itself in to close up the camper. I opted to spend more on the WFCO brand since other converter reviews were a little bit sketchy. It came the next day and cost $217. The wires were the correct length, size, and color. They were the same as the original one that failed. The wire ends were crimped with covers to contain the stands of wire, except for the white and green wire on the input side of the converter (left side in photo). The right side has the heavy gauge white and red wire for the DC output. My battery (lead acid, Interstate brand) was charging at 13.4 volts with the new converter. The new converter mounting was perfect. I didn't need to modify the holes. This converter should be able to pick up what type of battery you have and adjust the charging profile. This is according to the manufacture WFCO. The heavy wires on the right-hand side pass through a hole in the cabinet and then behind the green circuit board with all the fuses. This board slides up under to fingers on the top and clips at the bottom in one spot. I just pushed down on the bottom clip, and the board came out easily so I could run the wires from the new unit behind it. I tightened the screws as much as I could with a screwdriver handle tool (using #2 square bits) and called it good. Of course, you need to disconnect the shore power and the battery to make sure there is no power to the electrical components before doing this job. Bust out your Fluke meter and verify there is no power!! Safety first! All in all, it probably took me 50 minutes to do the job. It's easy. So, if you have this issue with your converter not charging your battery, check YouTube for some videos of other possible causes as to why your converter may not be working and change it yourself if necessary. The dealer wanted $300+tax for the unit. I'm guessing the labor from the dealer was probably another couple hundred dollars. Happy camping!

Easy replacement, charges and automatically senses and maintains LiPO4 batteries properly. Fast delivery with no problems.

Easy install. Just a quick swap with 5 wires. Works as advertised so far, fully charged my Li ion battery on my travel trailer to 100%.

Read this if you have a 7300...The parallax website shows this is a replacement for any 7300 series converter. There are many reviews saying it is a ten minute job. Not if you have a 7300 and buy ONLY this motherboard assembly. If you want to save time, buy the complete assembly with the casing around the converter. It costs about $40 more. This one will require some work to get it to fit in the box that held the 7300 converter. If you are replacing a 7300 with ONLY this main board assembly, here's some things you need to know: You will need a drill to remove pop rivets on top of the case once you remove it from the power center. You will need to drill out one of the old mounting shafts for the screws that hold the 7300 in place. the WFCO fits in between the rest that are there. You will need to drill new mounting holes in the case once the broken 7300 is out. You will need pop rivets and a rivet gun to mount the new converter. You will need to drill a roughly half inch hole in the top of the case to run the wires up to the fuse box panel. You will need extra of the positive (big red one) and thin green ground wires. They are not long enough to get to their destinations. Once you pop rivet the wfco converter into the case, you will pop rivet the top back on. It will have the new hole to route the three small wires up through since you just drilled it while the top was off the case. The positive wire is long enough to connect to the batt negative terminal. You will have extra of the big red wire to make it long enough to get to where it hooks up on the fuse block. Now for the technical parts of it: The wiring is pretty straight forward. It does not come with instructions but if you just duplicate what was in there with the old 7300 you'll be good to go. At that point it's just screwing the old case back into the power center and putting the front on. There is a nice test/troubleshooting diagram for the 7300 series converter online that also works to test the new unit. If you are unsure what is up with your 7300 find the guide and follow it. It is very helpful in diagnosing if your 7300 converter is shot. The new one does indeed fit well in the 7300 box and functionally it is superior to the 7300. If I had it to do over again, I would have spent the extra $40 and bypassed all the work necessary to make this unit fit and work.

Works Great, as advertised.

I bought it because the one in our R-Pod 179 failed while we were on a trip. Once I was able to get it (shipped to a friend and brought to where we were), it was easy to install. Once installed, everything was back to full functionality.There are no instructions, but it is straight forward. Because it is a replacement for an identical unit, one just needs to note which wires go to the terminals when disconnecting (after removing power, both from AC and DC sides). Then one connects the new unit's wires to the terminals where the old unit's wires were connected. The hardest part is connecting the heavy red and white wires to the circuit board. It is easier to remove that in order to get the wires in place and then replace it after that is done. A square-tip screwdriver is helpful also as a Phillips screwdriver will not be able to apply sufficient force to loosen the screws. The square-tip can apply more torque to stubborn screws.I gave this unit 4 stars because the old unit failed. At least it is still within the warranty period, so the old unit is on the way to Arterra to be checked and replaced. Because we were on the road, I could not send it off until after we returned. We will end up with a spare in case this should happen again.