Router Table Box Joint Jig - Finger Joint Indexing Keys w/Three Finger Widths ¼”, ⅜” & ½” - Stable MDF Router Fence w/Low-Friction Melamine Coating - Knobs to Lock Platform w/ ¾” Miter Slot

I was looking to get into small box-making in the simplest way possible. I used a portable router, with an array of portable tables and jigs. For 1/4 inch joints, I started with a Dewalt 600b cordless router, a Bosch portable workbench, a Rockler Trim Router Table, a good carbide spiral up cut bit, and and this Rockler Box Joint Jig. After several days of experimentation, I came up with some pretty good, repeatable box joints. The procedure is as follows: 1) Clamp the Router Trim Table to the work bench. 2) Loosely clamp the Box Joint Jig the the Trim Table. 3) For 1/4 inch jigs, I used a 0.25 drill bit to set the distance from the 1/4 inch brass key to the router bit. A set of feeler gauges can help zero in on the distance. 4) Clamp everything tight. 5) Use a digital gauge to set bit height. Set the height roughly 0.010 more than the mating material thickness. I used a Wixey WR25 3" Mini Digital Height Gauge. This gauge really makes things easy. 5) Press work piece tightly against brass key, and make a test cut. 6) With a 1/4 inch joint, that first pin thickness should be 0.245-0.250. If the thickness is less than 0.245, the fit will get sloppy. If it is more than 0.250, it will be too tight, and the joints will not go together. For me, about 0.248 is the sweet spot. Get some digital calipers, and learn how to use it. 7) A second cut isn't necessary to dial in the fit. Loosen the clamps, and tap the Box Jig left or right as necessary to achieve the 0.245-0.250 pin width that you are looking for. 8) After the first cut is dialed in, make sure subsequent cuts ae made by pressing the workpiece tightly against the brass key. The key is only about 0.243 inch in width, so this step is important. The 3/8 and 1/2 inch joints follow the same procedure. This method is working for me, particularly for small, one-off projects. You would want something more substantial for making larger quantities of joints. I want to stress, that using digital calipers, and a digital gauge for router bit depth really help make this, or any other project less frustrating.

This worked well for my router table! I had to create new slots for this on the table but that's fine. It's my table so I can do whatever I want right? Had to drill a couple holes in it to accommodate the ability to lower/raise my router and then lock it in place, but again, it's mine so who's gonna stop me? I would recommend this if you want to do box joints!

I've been using the jig for about 2 weeks to make a series of shop cabinets for my tools. The unit does work well with my router table (MCLS Bench Top) and DeWalt 618 router, but the jig is a little tricky to dial in on the right size for the interlocking joints. I even use a set of brass setup bars to establish the distance between the bit and the brass key on the jig but it's still tricky to get it just right. The waste material does seem to build up under the jig sled and you will have to clean it out after each side of your work is cut. That may be part of the problem if waste is not clearing as use index each cut. It is also difficult to see the cuts in progress since the bench top table is a little higher than eye level (not the fault of the Rockler jig). I use a clamp on the first cut to ensure the workpiece is tight against the brass key pin and fence and the jig does provide adequate space for clamping smaller workpieces. It might be nice for the piece to ride on a slide (like a cross cut sled) to avoid catching on the bit opening in the jig (a problem with the waste material buildup), although varying pin and notch sizes might make that more complicated. I will be building a less tall stand for the table top in the future, and see if I can improve the dust collection as well. I do like the jig and will continue to learn how to use it better, but plan to waste a few practice pieces for each project.

As with any Rockler product great instructions, easy setup if you have set up bars. Excellent fit and finish. The jig is now set up. 20 drawers this weekend. It is just a quality tool to have , no substitute for quality.

Excellent product which has allowed me to make many boxes from 1/4 inch hardwood. Two tips: Use a precise spacer bar to set the distance between the router bit and the metal key. I tried using a 1/4 inch drill bit but did not get good results. Second, make sure the T-track knobs are fastened very tightly. When I hand-tightened them I found there was some creep which forced me to file down the box joints to get them to fit properly. Use a wrench.

Doesn’t fit my Kobalt router table. It looks like it would be fine if my router table had wider slots. Oh well! I’ll sell it to someone, hopefully. Or make my own router table that it will fit.

This Rockler Box Joint is easy to setup and work with. I recently made a Presentation/Storage Box for Pie. I used the 1/4" Bit and Key and the box came out perfectly. I also happen to be legally Blind, so that says a lot for the quality and accuracy of this unit. I highly recommend this unit!

I thought this worked well. I did buy a set of brass set up blocks to go with it That made it easier to use. I had no experience making box joints before they came out. Perfect. High-quality, accurate.

Il prodotto si presenta fatto con ottimi materiali e ben progettato. Non ho avuto modo di provarlo in quanto non compatibile Infatti vanno fatte alcune considerazioni e controlli prima di acquistarlo: Il JIG si aggancia alla t-track del banco fresa, perché si agganci è necessaria una distanza minima di 12,5 cm tra il centro della fresa e il canale, è comunque possibile allungare la fresata di aggancio L’aggancio si effettua tramite spessori in metallo da inserire nella t-track; questi una volta tirati dalle manopole dovrebbero allargarsi e garantire la stabilità del supporto. Questi spessori hanno forma rettangolare con il lato in alto di 20 mm e spessore 9,3 mm quindi vanno bene per le t-track comuni larghe esternamente 30 mm. Altro problema è che gli spessori che fanno da riferimento per creare i denti dell’incastro sono in misure imperiali: 1/2, 1/4 e 3/8. Questo in se va bene salvo che bisogna avere le frese delle stesse dimensioni e queste in genere vengono vendute con codoli imperiali e quindi poi necessitano di mandrini (pinze) del router che riescono a lavorare con queste misure Insomma niente di impossibile ma prima di acquistare fate un passaggio per verificare tutti questi dettagli, se siete attrezzati potrebbe essere un buon acquisto

Excellent table router box joint jig. Easy setup and use.

Ware ist gut angekommen. Vielen Dank

il est bien fait, solide, par contre c'est pour des mesures en pouce et pas en mm. si vous avez pas les bonnes fraises c'est inutilisable

The unit it's self is great after setup, one's set make more than one box and make cheat blocks to aide in setup next time you use it.