Dent Out Cross Bar Ding Repair Kit

First off: 2011 Jetta TDI - Factory paint, outer skin feels as thing as recycle coke cans...Situation: several small dings from door corners but also a significant dent in the right front edge of my corner panel from a hand (long story..) Thumb below dented in and fingers above..(pincher) I am not a mechanic nor do I have any experience doing body work of any kind..This product worked flawlessly on the usual door dings I mentioned from corners of doors into the door panels. 2 out of 4 are virtually non-existent, 2 others there is only a slight 1/8" imperfection. Max. 2 tries per, to get what I wanted.On the corner panel, which was more extensive, angles etc.. I would say after maybe 18-20 attempts, I got to a point where it isn't great but looks far better than it was. I simply could not round out the lines properly.Good about this product:1. Really easy to use if you do it right. Like another user clearly stated and my comments:2. ZERO impact to my factory paint finish - the glue comes off the car very easy.3. Low clean up requirements..(although see bad for details)Bad1. Lots of sticks..but nowhere near enough cleaner. Cleaning the rubber heads can be very tedious and found I used alot of the cleaning fluid. I am down to about 20% left after the 18-20 corner panel attempts. Would like to know what this stuff is or what substitute I can use for sure.2. One other user suggest more rubber ends and I agree. This way you can work more while someone is cleaning another. Also, before I started using my finger nail, I hacked up the larger piece with a blade..Stick to your finger nail with fluid to get the rubber head clean.Tips:1. The rubber knob in which you put the melted glue on needs to be crystal clean AND dry before you try again.2. The car surface also needs to be sparkling clean before attempting this.3. Ensure the melted glue is evenly distributed on the knob and heaping enough to ensure when you put it on your car the liquid engulfs the rubber head.4. Hold the head in place for a few seconds..don't expect it to adhere right away.5. Do not twist the knob like you are reeling in a fish..go slowly and observe the metal lifting .6. I recommend being in a shaded area..once the sun starting hitting my car..I seemed to either have less luck with the glue staying stuck..maybe just me getting tired..6. Avoid using this on a dent bigger than 3-4 inches. And, like I said..be careful with "shaped" panels..you can do more harm than good.I'll post a few picks and maybe a video if it works...

We had a nasty storm that left hail damage on a couple of my kid's cars. The cars are old enough that the only coverage I have on them is liability. They're not worth taking to a body shop, but nice enough that I'd like to get the dents out as best I can. I had mixed results. The first day I worked on my son's '03 Nissan Altima. It was about 87F but overcast so we worked outside. The adhesive did not hold very well. It would frequently pop off the paint as we would slowly crank on the piston. After several attempts on a single dent, it looked a little better.My daughter's ''04 Mazda 3 went better. The next day it was just over 80 and since it was sunny I worked in the garage. The adhesive worked very well and we pulled most of the dents out. Not sure why it worked so much better. Could it have been the paint type, or softer sheet metal, or the slightly cooler temperature? My daughter took the car through a car wash just before I worked on it. I'm not sure.Here's a few observations:1. Read other customer feedbacks. There's a lot of useful information out there.2. Even my best dent removal didn't totally eliminate the dent. Hail dents tend to make a little divot that's impossible to totally get out using this method. It took large dents and made them smaller. But they were still there. I did successfully remove a non hail dent that was more like a small sheet metal crease.3. When screwing/lifting the piston dent puller, hold onto the rubber base that's attached to the adhesive. I think by reducing the torque on the piston it helped keep the adhesion to the car body.4. I think their special solvent is just IPA. I tried IPA out of curiosity and it worked equally well.5. When removing the adhesive, puddle a little solvent on one side. Raise and lower that side by rocking the piston to let the solvent seep in underneath it. It eventually comes free.

Overall this product did a great job. It removed sveral hail dents that were about an 1.5" across and maybe 1/4" deep. It took 2-3 tries on the hail dents to get them out, but I would say it removed at least 98% of the dent. It also mostly removed a dent about the size of football that was roughly 1.5" deep. It didn't take it out completely, but it took care of about 90% of the dent after several tries where I targeted small sections each time. I think if I spent more time on the rest of ripples in that area I could get it all out.I think you need to have realistic expectations on a product like this. Is it going to work miricales...no, is it going to remove most of your ping pong ball sized dents...it did for me. I think the success can also vary depending on the vehicle and it's age. Older cars have thicker metal, the newer cars have thinner metal an in a lot of cases the panels are aluminium. the package states not to use this product on aluminium panels.Overall I would say this product did everything it promised. Follow the directions and it's possible to get the same results I did. Let's face it, you've spent more money on worthless products, for the money this is at least worth a try.The only reason I gave it 4 stars instead of 5 was beacuse I'd like to see more choices on the dent studs (the part you put the glue on). I wish they'd have one more larger stud.