J-B Weld 40006 Wood Restore Premium Epoxy Putty Kit - 32 oz.

I'm impressed. I have wood windows. I'm replacing my wood storms with aluminum. I had one window on the north side of the house that has a rotted frame. I gutted out several years ago, replaced the brick mold with composite, cleaned up the wood storm and it dried out inside very nicely.So I used this stuff. I kneaded it as instructed. I pushed down inside but even after 30 minutes it was soft. After a full hour, the surface was pretty hard. I tried sanding and underneath was soft. I simply waited. It got nice and hard, was easy to sand with a power sander. I did not get a before photo, but the area where the stain is is where the filler was put in. I'm impressed.I have a rotted board on one of our Adirondack chairs, I'm going to try this on that next.

I honestly prefer the abatron product but it’s often twice the price.I used this product after soaking the rotted wood with abatron liqui-wood. Products appear to be compatible. I think the liquiwood or a similar product is essential to stabilize the surrounding wood.I used approximately two gallons of this stuff this summer to repair rot that was 3”-4” deep under some windows along front of my house. Alternative would have involved rebuilding 30’ of wood paneling and windows, so I’m glad this stuff exists.This jb weld product dries to be sandable overnight though sometimes I used a heat gun in the morning to complete the cure. Sanded surface was smooth, the material is extremely tough and primer went over it well. Much much faster than rebuilding with new wood.I let the material puff out of the hole slightly, then sand flush once it is cured. I used a 1/4 sheet detail sander and 120 grit paper to prep for primer. I wiped with anhydrous isopropyl before applying aqua lock acrylic primer, final coat was Benjamin Moore latex.Can’t tell repair occurred, the jb weld looks better than the cedar.

I bought a new house last year and discovered this year that someone did an awful patch job on the deck railing. It looks like someone dragged a hose over the top of the wood and, over time, it caused a gouge that's about three inches wide and almost 2 inches deep. Someone filled the gouge with that pink wood filler that's intended for much smaller repairs. They threw a coat of paint on it and that was it. Needless to say, the first time I looked at it sideways the filler fell out.Before I discovered this putty I contemplated how I was going to easily, and inexpensively, fix the railing. I could have replaced the entire piece of wood but that would mean knocking out all the spindles, replace a 12 foot piece of pressure treated 2x6, prime and paint the whole thing and put it all back together again.But then I found this. I've used J B Weld epoxy for years and had the utmost confidence that they were true to their word. They include a pair of plastic gloves with the product and a small plastic spreader. I used my own gloves but the spreader was useful. Mixing it was simple, equal parts from each bucket, mush them around in your hands for a bit to get a consistent color and it's ready to go. I used the spreader to pack it in tight and smooth it a bit. By the way, they suggest using a little bit of water to dampen the product to make it easier to spread - it's a good tip.It took longer than an hour before I felt confident enough in this to start sanding it but I laid it in pretty thick. I used an electric sander and it took some doing for a 60 grit sandpaper to do its job. Just for fun I rolled up some of this like a twig and let it harden. A few hours later it was hard and snapped just like a tree twig would.The only problems I had using this is that it wanted to stick to my gloves and it took some patience to get it to stay where I wanted it. But, I found that using a little bit of water helped and if I pressed the product in with my palm instead of my fingers I got better results.Before I painted my deck rail I hit the repaired area with a hammer a few times to test the adhesion because I didn't want to have to re-do this next year. No problems at all. It all blended in so well that you can't tell where I did the repair.I bought the large size for two reasons. First I have some superficial cracks on some of the floor joists on the deck that I'm planning on filling so water doesn't get in there. Second, just like my J B Weld epoxy, it's a nice product to have around. Also, if you look at the price per ounce of this putty the larger size makes more sense.

This is a good product. It is easy to mix, doesn't tend to stick to your hands if you mix without gloves, and takes paint well.I'm an electrician and from time to time in residential and commercial applications need to fill a hole or patch a wall and this stuff sets up relatively quickly; it doesn't set up as fast as Bondo or relatively dry mixed Water Putty but does reach a hard set within 40 minutes or so.While this isn't as hard when set as Bondo it is just as, if not more, weather resistant and can be drilled nicely.My only downsides are two fold it is of a strange consistency, not thin and not thick, this can be an upside but means it can't easily be troweled or flattened with a putty knife to get as neat of a finish, without sanding, as Bondo, and it also isn't as thick as J-B Welds stick epoxies meaning it can't be rough formed as well either.I find I use this to fill gaps then cover with either Bondo, Water Putty, or Spackle depending on need.While this will set underwater it is much to thin to do so as effectively as their Marine Stick, but it has worked in the rain with a little protection.I like this, even though it is MUCH more expensive than Duct Seal, to fill gaps and penetrations that don't need a fire rating, as it sets relatively hard.*I would not this is electrically non-conductive and proves a good insulator under CAT III/IV conditions up to and probably even past 1,000 Volts. in a pinch I used this to temporarily fix a glass insulator which broke and for which I didn't have a spare on hand; it worked so well with 0 bleed I almost considered leaving it.