WORK SHARPBenchtop Woodworking Tool Sharpener

Have been looking for a machine to sharpen chisels for a while. Many options of slow rotating grinding wheels out there, but most are too expensive to justify. Sharpeing per hand to initially set up chisels on the other hand is VERY time consuming. The Work Sharp 3000 is in the perfect sweet spot between price, performance and efficiency and I am very happy with the results and sharpness of the chisels. Very easy to set the machine up, very good results and extremely fast and easy to re-sharpen a chisel once it has been base set up and ground.Three areas could be improved on:1) width of the front sharpening port; as it only allows for 2 inch width, one cannot sharpen plane blades that typically are wider than 2 inches;2) Very difficult to read the angle of the sharpening port, particularly if the machine is in use and there are shavings in the viewing window. Wish the numbers/angles would be better visible by coloring the raised numbers;3) previous models of this Sharpener had an accessory which was a platform one could snap onto the machine to use as a base to sharpen wider objects (see point 1). That is no longer availble for this version of the machine. That is a shame. One can build one, but then would have to modify some bolts and fasterners on the machine to put the platform in place. At time of writing (Aug 2024) this accessory is not availble.Other than that, a wonderful machine. Quick, easy and produces outstanding results and shart chisels. Absolutely recommend this product.

I love this sharpener. I've only had it a few days and have sharpened every chisel in my workshop. (I'll include a couple of my lessons learned toward the end of this review.) Next up are my narrow plane blades. I didn't purchase the wide-angle attachment but will do so in order to get all my wider plane blades as sharp as my chisels are now. I do all my woodworking by hand, so it's essential to have sharp tools. The Work Sharp 3000 is so effortless and so fast that I could take half a dozen chisels from banged up to perfect in less time than it would usually take me to do one chisel by hand. And going forward it will be a no-brainer to keep every chisel perfectly sharp -- it literally takes less than a minute or two to return a perfect edge to a chisel that has been dulled from ordinary use.Before this, I've tried diamond plates and oil stones for sharpening. I found the diamond plates didn't have a very good feel and didn't provide a good end result, so I had basically settled on oil stones for all my sharpening. For a new chisel I would start on the bench grinder to set the initial hollow bevel then proceed to hand sharpen either with a Veritas Mk.II jig or free-hand. I am a hobby woodworker, so I'd rather not spend all my time sharpening and have no time to do the actual woodworking. Yet I still want tools that are sharp enough to effortlessly pare and plane everything by hand. I probably get there eventually using oil stones but the reality is I don't have enough time in the workshop to become an expert hand sharpener. As a result I would sometimes get a great edge with oil stones, but other times not. The Work Sharp takes out all the guesswork, so the results are beautiful every single time. And it's fast. As long as the basic shape of the chisel is there, all it takes is a couple 2-second touches to each grit to do the job.LESSONS LEARNED* For most tools, I need just a few taps on the 1000-grit disk, a few on the 3600, and a few on the 6000 (bought separately -- the 6000 doesn't come with the machine itself, but in the separate fine-grit pack). If it has been a while since the last sharpening, the 400-grit disk might be helpful, and very occasionally maybe the 220. At the end I pass the chisel over a flat leather strop with honing compound added to it -- I didn't buy the leather wheel but might do so, as that seems like a good final step.* I have a bench grinder that I will continue to use to set the initial hollow bevel on new tools. If my ultimate goal is a 25-degree edge (such as a regular bench chisel) then I'll grind something closer to 20-degrees on the bench grinder. That way the Work Sharp 25-degree setting will add a 25-degree micro-bevel. The beauty of the micro-bevel is you only have to sharpen a small portion of the steel, making it very fast and saving the life of the sharpening sandpaper. If you don't have a bench grinder, then it would be great to use the 20-degree setting on the Work Sharp along with the rougher grits (120, 220) to grind the primary bevel -- but don't go any higher on the grits than that. Switch to the 25-degree setting, start low on the grits, but then work all the way up to the highest numbers.* I find the fence that you adjust based on the widge of the chisel is somewhat unnecessary. You need to leave a little extra room so you can slide the tool up and down the ramp, so it's just as easy simply to push the tool against the wall on the far left or right of the ramp and not worry too much about the adjustable fence.* The sandpaper stuck to the bottom of the ramp isn't the best way to remove the burr. Instead, I simply turn the Work Sharp off and wait for the wheel to stop spinning (that happens pretty quickly), and as long as I have the same grit on both sides of the wheel, I just put the flat base of the chisel on top of the wheel and swipe back a few times. Just know that with this approach you have to be sure you do the same thing with each grit as you work your way up, otherwise the nicely polished base of the chisel will not be polished at the end of sharpening.

I was impressed by this tool on several you tube videos including the stumpy nubs video. What I liked was the speed, accuracy, compensation for an unskilled operator like me and a general fun way to sharpen tools, as needed without much lag time.Cons:Price of the initial unit itself, accessories, and the consumables - sandpaper, the glass platens etc. These are not cheap and have to ordered from work sharp (or retailers like Amazon). As with most things you pay for good quality, however it is one of the few negative of this system.Limited to the abrasives brands, grits and styles sold by worksharp (unless of course you pull a stumpy nubs)Now that I have that out of the way ...Pros:MADE (VERY WELL) IN THE USA ...This is a very well, designed and well built machine. While there is an ample amount of plastic in this unit, it does not look or feel cheap and in fact the plastic is quite solid. It seems that the parts of the unit that take more of the stress were built of metal.The motor sounds strong and steady - for what that's worth.The unit is very intuitive to use (although I had watched numerous videos on it prior to use) and there was barely a learning curve. Using an old beat up chisel, I was able to get up and running within a few minutes literally. Got the chisel to a brand new 25 degree edge - all the nicks and chips were removed - plus a 30 degree microbevel. The chisel performs awesome now.Was able to pick up a few cheap chisels at lowes and get them honed to a point of slicing paper ....This thing is well worth the initial investment - the kit comes with everything needed to get started. The paper, while expensive, does seem to last especially if cleaned after each use. Worksharp provides a cleaning stick with the kit.If you desire, you can buy your own sandpaper and cut it to size.Now I have the capability to touch up the chisels on the fly without much downtime and it makes the woodworking that much more fun with the properly sharped tools

La lijadora es una herramienta excelente que renueva y afila gurbias de tallado, cinceles y otras herramientas.No es apta para afilar cuchillos.Los discos de metal donde se aplican las lijas autoaderentes funcionan de una manera excelente siempre y cuando se siga el proceso de afilado de la lija mas gruesa a la mas delgada, tratando de mantener la inclinación y distancia constantes en la herramienta a ser afilada.La baja velocidad del motor permite afilar sin que haya sobrecalentamiento; es importante no poner demasiada presion sino dejar que la herramienta haga su trabajo.Extrema precauciona debe ser utilizada después de afilar pues el filo es casi como el de una navaja de rasurar.Yo considero que esta herramienta es algo indispensable en un taller de tallado, grabado o trabjo en madera.

Das Gerät kommt mit einer deutschen Beschreibung, es ist alles dabei um Stechbeitel wirklich rasiermesserscharf zu schleifen, und das in einer sehr kurzen Zeit, ich kann es uneingeschränkt empfehlen , das einzige was mich gestört hat ist, das der Händler das Gerät in der OVP versendet, OHNE Umverpackung, somit sieht der Originalkarton entsprechend lädiert aus. Der Versand ging sehr schnell.

Le top du top pour l'affûtage des ciseaux à bois et l'âme de rabots.

Lo utilizzo per affilare i miei scalpelli da legno e funziona alla grande.Pochi secondi e la lama ritorna affilata come un rasoio. La guida graduata poi è veramente semplice e intuitiva da utilizzare. il motore gira non troppo velocemente, consentendo di utilizzare anche la parte superiore del disco abrasivo, mantenendo un buon controllo ed evitando che la lama da affilare scivoli.L'unico appunto sono i ricambi e gli accessori che sono veramente cari e di difficile reperimento.

When I opened the package I was a bit sceptical as the instruction manual was written all in German, but looking at the diagrams it was easy to understand, I didn't know just how bad my chisels and plane irons were until I started, and in an hour and a half I had sharpened 16 chisels, 2 smoothing plane irons, 1 block plane iron, and 1rebate plane iron, they are now as they were when I bought them, and really sharp, now when my chisels and planes get dull, it will take just a few seconds to bring them to sharp, I used the 400 grit disc, and after I had finished I thought that the disc would be worn out and need replacing, I was amazed it looks like it's hardly been used, I recommend this to ALL carpenters and joiners it's a must,