HARRIS Engineering NO. 2R Radiused Flange Nut-Wood Fore-End

works well when used with my ruger 1022 stock

Simply constructed component consisting of a gently curved backer plate with a threaded grommet, and the actual Harris stud itself.The curvature and dimensions are nearly perfect for a snug hand-fitted installation in the inside of a CETME/ C308 foregrip.It will work as it is, but with clearances as they are, you run the risk of touching the barrel. This can significantly affect accuracy.What I did was chamfer the long edges so it sat lower inside the grip. That's all.Pair with a Magpul QD Harris mount bipod or a good carbon fiber Harris style traditional bipod. Skip the cheap ones.UPDATE -I've since updated the system to an experimental free-float foregrip made out of a piece of tiger maple and some DOM aluminum tube from McMaster-Carr bolted through the cocking tube rather than between it and the barrel.After spending about $100 on other options for bipod mounts I ended up eventually buying another one of these and relieving the inside of the foregrip to create additional clearance, though this time it was more for airflow.It's about as close to drop-in as anything has ever been on a gun that isn't a modular mass-produced AR15. We are spoiled these days.This part might take a little bit of fitting but it's a very structurally strong option, a very cheap option, and a very simple and reliable option that you should consider if you're looking to keep bulk down over an equivalent picatinny system or swapping to a metal Mlok foregrip.

Purchased to add swivel stud to Ruger 1022 synthetic stock. Works great, now I can add a sling or bipod or both.

It works just fine on the round front hand guards so that you can install a bipod or picatinny rail. You must, however, shorten the length of the threads so you can turn the hand guard to tighten it up. Otherwise the bolt will hit the gas tube. You also have to file down the shoulder where the round part sticks through the hole. The female threaded part stuck just slightly through the hole so it was just a little too thick to be flush and tighten up completely. Once shortened it tighten up just fine. The curve in the plate does hold it nicely so it can be tightened without doing damage to the guard. Tighten it up completely prior to installing the hand guard. I use only bull barrels on my builds. Regardless of what you use, just take your time and double check everything before you loctite for final assembly.

I was reading about a guy that bought this in pushed it through the hole on the bottom of the wood hand guards on a C308 to mount a bi pod.I tried it and it works great. It is a tight fit and I had to push it hard to get it in but I didn’t have to drill the hole out any larger.

On Harris' website, this is listed as a drop-in piece for the M1A, but they charge $10 for handling *any* order, even a $10 part like this. So, I bought it on Amazon, saved some money.Harris lists this as a THE adapter to install on the weep-hole in front of the sling on an M1A, to give you the ability to run a bipod. And it CAN work, as I discovered. But if you think this is going to simply glue in, guess again.The screw threads (as shown in the pic) protrude through the concave portion of the metal flange, about 3/16". The problem with this is that directly above where the flange needs to sit, is the gas cylinder, which is maybe 1/16 above where the flange seats. That means you have to cut off about 1/8" of the threads, bevel the edges, and then test-fit again.The pocket that flange sits in, is the wrong radius compared to the part. The solution is to use a sanding flapper-wheel and dremel, to correct this problem, and deepen the pocket, so that the flange will sit at or below the inner plane of the stock.Lastly, the flange was about 1/8" too long at each end for the formed pocket in the stock, requiring me to cut off, and then smooth, that amount on each end of the flange.After all of this was done- requiring numerous trial-fittings with the action- did I finally have a proper fitting for my bipod. It works... The catch is that it TAKES work to make it work.

I almost went with a 4 star rating because i had to do a small bit of drilling to get the mount to drop into the wood fore stock of my C308 but felt that would ave been unfair. Just a small amount of drilling and she dropped right in and fit snugly. Heck, getting the fore stock off was actually harder. Mounting my bi pod was a breeze after it was in. I definitely recommend this product.

Ruger should just add this excellent adaptor to their synthetic stock Mini-14 and Mini-30s. This is the first accessory I have added (there are many other functional upgrades) The ability to very quickly add and remove a bi-pod is great. Takes a little attention to detail like drilling+epoxying and possible trimming, but well worth the effort. Depending on your shooting position and purpose... a bipod can potentially dramatically improved shot placement. This keeps pressure off your gas block. Never did like that other Mini14 contraption that clamps on over gas block. That device gets a rating of 1 star from me even though I am a diehard Harris fan