Daystar KF04060BK Black Body Bushing

Great product! Easy to install...after the (hard part)..for those of us in the northern salt states. Removal of the old ones SUCKED. Save yourself a lot of swearing and prying with these tips. First cut a small opening in the front core support (see picture)to access the nut for the front mount. Heat the nut! After the old bolts are out use a 3/4 drill bit and drill the weld out of the bottom flange plate (see pictures) everything pops right out then ( with a little help of a hammer) .

Great product, my original mounts were pretty much gone. Fit was perfect. I used energy suspension lube on them due to the reviews stating that there is a noise. Ride is much better, no noise, no shifting. Use the short bolts for the radiator supports. I ended up cutting my old ones off after a couple of days trying to heat and wrench. At least they are accessible on the 2012s.

Bottom line: A pretty good buy. If I had more money, I would have bought silicone rubber body mounts. 2011 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab (6.7L Diesel)/ 277K miles The kit came with body mounts/cab bushings and the bolts needed to fit different trucks. The bolts were all grade 8, but none of them fit my truck, so I had to reuse the hardware from the factory. On a high-note, the factory hardware was grade 10. The instructions were for a different truck, and could be confusing to someone inexperienced. After installing these, I can immediately feel a difference in the ride. Its much better than on my rotted out body mounts/cab bushings. But its also different. Its almost like I can feel all the little bumps in the road, but they aren't jarring. Further research confirms that the original foam-rubber mounts (which deteriorate quickly) definitely produce a different ride quality. Note: I haven't tried them with the truck under a load, but I am guessing it would be better. Tools: 15MM socket and ratchet (recommend 1/2 in drive) Breaker Bar Jack block of wood Blue Loctite threadlocker Pry bar Torque Wrench PBlaster Rust release penetrating spray Determination/stubbornness Installation on a : 1. Don't use air tools. The captured nuts are not accessible without a lot of effort, and air tools will spin the nut out of the cage or bend the cage, making this a VERY hard repair. 2. There a 8 body mounts/cab bushings, 4 on either side of the truck. They are all easily accessible from the bottom of the truck. They are all the same, except the third mount, counting from the front of the truck. That 3rd mount has a shorter bolt. The mounts come in 2 parts: a top and a bottom. 3. The bolts were installed from the factory with loctite threadlocker. You will suffer a lot if you don't heat up the bolt before you try to turn it. I used a normal butane torch from a big box, and held the flame on the bolt for about 90sec. You may have to re-heat the bolt as you are unscrewing it, as there are a lot of threads. 4. Get under the truck and heat the bolt. Use the breaker bar and 15MM socket to free up the bolt and then unscrew it. DON'T BREAK YOUR BOLTS OR STRIP THE HEADS. Note that the replacement bolts from Daystar did NOT fit my truck. So I reused the originals. Repeat for all 8 bolts. As you are taking bolts out, keep track of which ones are the shorter bolts (3rd mount). There are a LOT of threads. I was really sore after this because the threadlocker makes it slow going, but you do NOT want to damage the cage around the bolts by using air/impact tools. The cussing increased the further along I went. 5. The bottom part of the bushing will come free. If its anything like mine, it might already be gone, or could just crumble in your hands. You will likely need to use the pry-bar to pry the top and bottom apart. I had a LOT of trouble with the front two mounts, which had rusted together. PB Blaster helped. So did copious shouting. 6. After taking the bottoms out, jack up ONE SIDE of the cab (at a time) with the block of wood. Be careful to lift in a well supported position. Lift slowly and check back frequently so you only lift as far as you need to get the top part of the mount/bushing out. You don't want to pull any bundles of wire or AC lines, so take it slow and easy. 7. Install the top mounts bushings. Repeat for all 8 bushings. 8. Once the truck is sitting on the top mounts/bushings, you should be able to install the bottom mounts/bushings and the bolts. DON'T forget to put Blue Loctite threadlocker on the bolts as you are reinstalling them. 9. The directions say to torque to 50lbs. The factory spec is 76lbs. However, these mounts are NOT made of the same material as factory, so follow the Daystar guidance and torque to 50lbs with the torque wrench. 10. Test drive. Re-torque as needed after 500miles. 11. Enjoy an adult beverage of your choice.

A perfect replacement for old ford cab bushing mounds. For a 2010 F-250 crew cab, gas 2 wheel drive. Very easy to install and fits perfectly in the cab mound holes. Doesn’t wiggle in the holes. I test drove my truck and it made the truck very quiet and the truck now rides like new again. DO NOT BE AFRAID TO BUY THIS PRODUCT!!!!!! It will fit right a work right, too. Im very happy with this product and value for money. This will last over 15 yrs.

Things you will need; A good floor jack 15mm socket ( 1-2 drive) 1/2 ratchet with a few long extensions DONT USE A IMPACT ‼️ Few blocks of wood Torch( I used a butane torch as you can see in photo) Some penetration fluid to help with the rust. A few adult beverages to help with the cussing and swearing lol It took me about 3.5 hours to do all 8 of my body mounts by my self. Everyone is saying the rear seat need to be pulled out to do the 2 rear body mounts. I did not have to take mine out of my 2012 f250 4 door. which saved me some time. I just loosened the bolt and put new body mounts in and tightened it back up. Over all it was a pretty good process and was fairly easy. USE YOUR FACTORY BOLTS, The ones that come with kit. The treads are not long enough. I give it a 5 stars! The truck rides so much better then what it did. As you can see my body mounts was completely shot! If you have extra money by the silicone ones. If your cheap and don’t have the extra money by these! I recommend them!

2008 f250 Super Duty 4x4 supercab replacements,only needed 6 mounts for my truck,took @5hrs in no hurry cutting the front ones out with a sawzall,comes with multiple bolts for varied lengths but reuse the nuts,heated the rear 4 nuts with a small acetelyne torch"not telling you to or recommending anyone do it"to heat the locktite and air racheted them out,remove all on passenger side,loosen driver's side almost all the way to keep the cab from moving to far,lift cab enough on pass side to remove old ones,install new loosely repeat,tighten all at once

I installed these on my 2012 F250, it is a pretty tough job, but afterwards it so worth it, if the worn mounts are not addressed earlier your plastic radiator will start to leak. These do have a stiffer ride and little more road noise. But it’s a solid kit

Kit is a good price, but it does stiffen the ride up on my truck 2016 F250 Lariat. It was mentioned in couple of reviews that read and they are correct. More ride noise and you can feel the road much more through the steering wheel. If these items don’t bother you well then this kit is the kit to buy. Another item that a negative for the kit are the bolts. The Ford factory bolts are a grade 10 bolt and these are a grade 5. The supplied bolts will work but if I were you I would reuse the factory bolts.