Shop Iron 16023 3/8" Drive Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor | Works on 1/4-Inch to 1/2-Inch Studs

I had to remove a couple of studs in an engine rebuild. I have an older round type, but didn't have the clearance, this worked perfectly.

Had a 12mm arp headstud stuck somehow, worked wonders, key was to get enough leverage on the tool and ratchet to bite hard, other tools broke instantly.Pros: solid quality feel, the internals aren't as fragile as others, wins out over a $50 setCons: the stud and tool are now one (will be buying again tho)

I had a #10 machine screw in a very tight spot and this did the trick. I also have the larger version.

This tool made replacing the exhaust manifold on 2005 Escalade a breeze. I had 2 bolts with broken heads and the extractor worked. It looks large but I was able to put it on the most difficult to reach stud - the one closest to the firewall. Awesome tool. To remove the broken bolt from the tool, put a large wrench on the extractor and use an impact on the socket. Comes out easy.

Took awhile to get it to work as no instructions on which nut to torque and use to turn. But it finally got my tractor broken off head brake bolt out after vise grips couldnt do it (tried several different ones).Clear instructions on best way to set this up to remove a damaged bolt with broken off head would be great

Excellent tool. Worked like a charm to extract 2 forty year old exhaust manifold studs (10mm dia,) on an aluminium motorcycle cylinder.Made in Taiwan, but seems to be fairly well built. I am looking around for other studs to pull out now just for fun ... :-)It basically looks like a chuck from a drill - but with some teeth to give it grip on the stud. I squirted a bit of WD40 on the stud first and let it sit for a bit. Then I used 2 wrenches to tighten it down on the stud (my stud had a non-threaded section in the middle - so it did not damage any threads).You will need a 36mm and a 24mm (or a 3/8 in drive - rachet handle for example) to tighten this puppy down.It states that it is suitable for "impact" wrench use, but I just used the wrenches and it worked fine. The key is to make sure its not slipping - so tighten it down good and make sure there is no debris on the teeth in the tool which will affect the grip (ie. metal scrapings from previous stud removal).The package states the tool can go down to 1/4 inch in diameter - but have not tested that yet.Definately worth the money - and proves the old saying that having the right tool for the job makes all the difference...Pro:- Decent quality and value- Solid build- Handles multiple diameters (adjustable) as indicated in description.Cons:- None- Clearance if you have a tight spot to work in (which was not my case).

Grind bolt heads off and use this..WAY EASIER than breaking bolt and welding nut on. It is pretty large so couldn't use on bolt against firewall or grind the head off that bolt as far as that goes. Took longer to get that one bolt out than it did to get the other 11 out with this stud extractor. Remember to tighten on stud/broken bolt with 2 wrenched b4 trying to extract.....Highly recommend

I was hopeful this product would remove broken bolts out of aluminum manifold. Apparently not designed to have a lot of pressure applied to it. I was surprised that it broke using hand tools.

I used it to remove 2 broken manifold studs on my truck I live in the rust belt and it took the broken studs out with ease

It worked as described.

Worked great to remove snapped studs off a turbo exhaust housing. As others have said there needs to be enough stud left for the tool to grab onto, so I was only able to remove 3 out of 4 broken studs. The last one I had to weld a nut onto in order to get it out. Not the fault of the tool, which is well designed and seems like it can take some abuse. I would be tempted to just use this tool instead of the double nut method on all studs I intend to replace because it works so well and gets studs out fast.

awesome tool but wish it was more compact. used it for a few exhaust manifold studs on my 04 5.4 3v f150.I wanted to test the tool before a serious job so I cut a piece off the passenger exhaust manifold while still on the truck to see if it works and it worked great.tips for you guys working on the samme thing do like I did and get a air pencil grinder and grinding wheels , jack up remove wheel , remove inner splash guard and start cutting the conplete manifold out piece by piece so you can get to the studs easier and from the top.. i did not use penetrating oil but would of helped.. I just cut off the studs Nuts and was left with a centimeter of stud. I take my mig highest setting and hit the stud head with a few tacks til it gets red hot followed by immedietly placing the stud extractor tool on there and tight it up fast the use a 21mm box end on the shell to unscrew. after all studs are gone might aswell chase the threads with a chaser or make your own with the old stud and cut a slit in the thread , prep head exhaust mating surface and then you have to remove the exhaust , sway bar and starter to fish the new manifold in from the bottom and if you have a friend it would go much smoother. recommended by me but not for tight spots . the chuck teeth mechanism got loose but wont fall and still works good

Works fantastic!